ive only checked timing on a old ct90
but I would assume its the same way for any bike

take off the stator cover or if has a timing mark hole use that with a timing light and see what it reads

im guessing those timing lights with a dial is how you would figure what the timing is at once the strobe makes everything look still, look at the dial and thats the timing?

ive only used a timing light with no dial a couple times in my life so not really sure how they work

 

I remember RichardAvitar commented about a 3° advance. I forget what it was all about, but he was looking at a mechanical movement of the pickup where an adjustable module would allow it to be done electronically.

I know there were also some posts here or in the ADVrider forum about the timing differences from the Australian bike to the North American bike. It was possibly the small difference in horsepower, maybe 2 or 3, I forget.

I think the most important power boost is when you can get it throughout the entire range, like the MCM does or the one you get from going to a bigger bore. You get more power through virtually all rpm points. I experienced that with the MCM on the 250 and with the bigger bore on the 650, amazing what only a 27cc boost did for it. I don't know if the timing change boosts all through the range or not.

 

Yes, KLX678, RichardAvatar did the "Bernie Mod" and his results are in his threads - the Aussie bikes (and the older kLX's?) have a different iggy curve including more total advance, that data is available in here as well - and if standard ignition tuning procedures show that our KLX's can take a healthy bump "up", in initial and total advance as well as the "new" total advance comming sooner in the RPM range, you will have a noticeable increase in power levels from 3-3.5k to redline - not to mention a stronger throttle response... Standard iggy tuning is to find out how much more intial and total advance the engine can handle without detonation, then play with lowering the rpm at which the total advance "hits".. Obviously, proper WOT AFR (12.5 to 1, or so.) is a prerequisite for best iggy tuning results..

 

For some reason the 3° sticks in memory along with the fact that it wasn't a huge gain, but a bit none the less. I think at the time he was using a relatively consistent range and pattern timed to see how things worked - pretty much old school and the way most of us have to work. So it isn't really documented on some chart or gauges as could be done with some extra cash to do so.

Either way, an interesting avenue.

 

I asked for a reason. From what I recall, the timing info was taken from some Kawi literature on the 250.
We've been down that road tuning the megasquirt on our Suzuki race cars. Timing advance was listed at 32 degrees by Suzuki, which, if it were a reasonably well designed cylinder head, would be inline with what it should be - if not a little much. It wasn't that. It was 32 on top of the 6-8 degrees of initial. Combustion chamber design was garbage, and it wanted all of 40 degrees. Almost unheard of with a modern cylinder head.

Regardless, unless it's been checked, I'm assuming that there's no difference between the bikes. Pulling 10 degrees out, if it really wants 35, would make the bike almost unrideable. It would be so slow, so lazy, it would be obvious that something's wrong.

If somebody has actually checked it, I'd like to hear what it was