2018 KLX250 Looking for Aftermarket Exhaust but where are the maps?

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  #61  
Old 06-14-2018, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Cormace
Hi rfesu,

Thanks for the info. Where did you get the +250% number?

According to the KLX250 PCFC manual (.pdf link) the dials allow for +-10%, but it doesn't say what the max is using the software.
the dials are just for people without computers or for testing quick changes.

i've tuned quite a few of these things, the pcv and pcfc are both +250% max. it's also referenced on this page Power Commander Fuel Controller

you need to realize how much 40% additional fuel is. think about it this way. if you had to add 40% of fuel to a high load area to hit an optimal performance target (lets call optimal 13:1 just for fun) that means you would have started at over 18:1, which (under heavy load) is making less than half of ideal power, clattering, clicking, melting holes in pistons and spark plug electrodes in short periods of time.

since i rode my bike really hard for 500+km with the lid removed and a yoshi slip on with no power commander and im popping wheelies with no holes in my pistons, and my plug still looks alright, i'd theorize the FI bikes need waaaaay less than 40% fuel increase. probably more like 5-15% depending on the area

power commander just wrote me back and nobody has brought a klx250s with a yoshi pipe to their dyno facility, anyone willing to do that? then we'd all have a real map. i can't do it, way too far away
 
  #62  
Old 06-14-2018, 05:46 PM
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rfesu,

Thanks for the well framed response. I think that all makes sense. The numbers I posted (+4% up to 3750rpm, +8% up to 7250rpm, and +10% to redline) were based on PCs recommendations, but I'm wondering if there is something else wrong with my bike as I'm not popping wheelies even with a 13T front sprocket. There just isn't enough grunt at low RPMs. Maybe I need to lose some weight.
 
  #63  
Old 06-14-2018, 06:48 PM
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Assuming the new bikes are using the same cams and cam timing as the older ones:

I). low end grunt comes with the cam retime ( MCM ) see the Marcelino cam mod in our stickies OR on KLX678's signature line from one of his posts..

II). Without MCM, the (lidless+ full performance exhaust) powerband is 6k - redline. Power levels below 6k are muted. No use trying to snap wheelies from below 6k rpm - it'll likely be somewhere between 6.5k-7.5k when a 1st gear snap to WOT can wheelie..

III). A "stump puller" that can snap wheelies "at will" is MCM+stock header+performance slipon+lidless airbox+ proper CVK setup or EFI programming.
 

Last edited by Klxster; 06-14-2018 at 06:53 PM.
  #64  
Old 06-15-2018, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Cormace
rfesu,

Thanks for the well framed response. I think that all makes sense. The numbers I posted (+4% up to 3750rpm, +8% up to 7250rpm, and +10% to redline) were based on PCs recommendations, but I'm wondering if there is something else wrong with my bike as I'm not popping wheelies even with a 13T front sprocket. There just isn't enough grunt at low RPMs. Maybe I need to lose some weight.
power wheelies are more about weight transfer (of course gearing and torque helps). if you're a big guy, you should wheelie easily; you have more weight to transfer. it's not going to lift the front end on throttle alone, it's a 250 with dirt bike geometry, so it's going to want to keep the front end on the ground unless you really insist on it, sometimes that can be a good thing

Assuming the new bikes are using the same cams and cam timing as the older ones:
maybe fuel injection itself helped out, or they've changed ignition timing? i would say on my bone stock bike that my powerband hits pretty hard at closer to 5k, but that's just a feeling. fyi the cams n wheels are the same on the 2018 FI bike, i just compared their part numbers.

III). A "stump puller" that can snap wheelies "at will" is MCM+stock header+performance slipon+lidless airbox+ proper CVK setup or EFI programming.
i believe you, but a stock bike will do the same thing. ever heard.."it's not the bike, it's the rider". if you're in a situation where you need to snap wheelies 'at will', or pull stumps or whatever, you should be riding in your powerband, wherever it is

nice thing about making your power up high, is if you find yourself way out of your powerband, all it takes is a quick downshift and drop that clutch, you will be back into it tenths of a second.

if a low powerband bike that chokes at high rpm finds itself out of its powerband (revving too high), you're pretty much hitting the brakes or upshifting to get back there. that kind of backwards powerband is the main reason i sold the ol' XT250 and got this more well-balanced klx
 
  #65  
Old 06-15-2018, 05:04 PM
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Since you've done the research and found the cams and cam gears are the same, all the dyno results I've found for the carb'd KLX apply to the new bikes..
The exciting aspect is the very likely possibility that, once fueled correctly, the EFI bikes have enhanced power curves on each lidless mod combo we know about..

At this time, it does not look like I will be providing the testing and data for the Lidless EFI mod combos.. I would like to offer "EFI mod kits" with included dyno data, but this will not happen anytime soon..

We really need someone to set up to the plate - get maps developed for the best choice mod combos..
 
  #66  
Old 08-01-2018, 03:55 PM
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  #67  
Old 08-26-2018, 02:39 AM
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i finally got the power commander in there.

i've only been able to test it on the street so far but i don't notice a huge seat of the pants difference with the suggestions made by the power commander guys earlier in this thread.

one interesting thing is the stock map isn't a zero map, the power commander does come with a performance map for a stock bike already.

don't have a wideband right now but i'll try to borrow one, also will test that euro leo vince map to see if it's closer... i can definitely do a bit of tuning by feel too, we'll see how it goes..
 
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