Larger jets are on the inside to help cool the cylinder bores on # 2 and # 3 cylinder . #1 and # 4 are on the out side and run cooler
naturally. There fore extra fuel is not needed to aid in cylinder temp . It is very coman for some factory jetting to be the same stagered jetting.

You flooded your air box due to a stuck float or trash caught in a needle seat . You just happened to revert back to your prior setting and did not notice you either freed the stuck float or debris in the needle seat . This is very comman to think one thing but the problem is some were else .

Did you have a dyno run performed to show you were to RICH ? If so were were you at 12/1 11/1 on the chart ?


Also DJ mains carry a smaller # but are a larger hole than STOCK KeinHin jets that are stock for most bikes

Example a DYNOJET # 132 main = a # 142 KEINHIN JET that both jets measure a 0.055 INCH opening .

Here is a chart for you .

Kehien Jets -------- DJ Jets

Num / Thou. ------- Num / Thou.
92.5 / 0.035 ------- 92 / 0.035
95 / 0.036 ------- 94 / 0.036
97.5 / 0.037 ------- 96 / 0.037
100 / 0.038 ------- 98 / 0.038
102.5 / 0.039 ------- 100 / 0.039
105 / 0.040 ------- 102 / 0.040
107.5 / 0.041 ------- 104 / 0.041
110 / 0.042 ------- 106 / 0.042
112.5 / 0.043 ------- 108 / 0.043
115 / 0.044 ------- 110 / 0.044
117.5 / 0.045 ------- 112 / 0.045
120 / 0.046 ------- 114 / 0.046
122.5 / 0.047 ------- 116 / 0.047
125 / 0.048 ------- 118 / 0.048
127.5 / 0.049 ------- 120 / 0.049
130 / 0.050 ------- 122 / 0.050
132.5 / 0.051 ------- 124 / 0.051
135 / 0.052 ------- 126 / 0.052
137.5 / 0.053 ------- 128 / 0.053
140 / 0.054 ------- 130 / 0.054
142.5 / 0.055 ------- 132 / 0.055
145 / 0.056 ------- 134 / 0.056
147.5 / 0.057 ------- 136 / 0.057
150 / 0.058 ------- 138 / 0.058
152.5 / 0.059 ------- 140 / 0.059

Now the TAPER of the DJ needle is much thiner than stock needles alowing fuel to flow faster in the emulison tube .

Enjoy

 

I see good points mentioned. Nice chart c10. Needles are for mid range, a/f screws emulsion stuff of course lower range. Jets usually wfo. shimming and all kinds of stuff is talked about. Now a needle is tapered, so considerations must be placed on a ride for mid to wfo. A person has low end issues, mid issues or wfo issues. Or it just not frickin starts. No .02 cents here mentioned, but cv carbs are really not bad at all.

 

Also a important note is the SPRINGS . DJ provides shorter and softer springs witch allow the slide to be opened with less vacuum than the longer and stiffer stock slide spring .

Pros are quicker throttle response with DJ springs but you lose part throttle driveabilty . JERKY MOTION AT CERTIN LOW RPM's

The OLD CARTER AFB carb for car motors now known at the EDDLEBROCK performer carb in 500 CFM's and up has tuneable
needles and stiffer and softer springs to change when the needle is lifted up by the force of VACUM .

Now I want a piece of these carbs . LOL

 

i noticed i was running rich b/c with the airbox off and just the velocity stacks, when i would rev it up, fuel would actually spray out through the stacks when the needle was on the 5th clip setting. When I set the clips back to 4, it stopped doing it for the most part.I didn't take the float bowls apart so that shouldn't of been a issue, and i didn't see anything in the slides but who knows. stock jets are 180 outside and 190 inside. I just know that on the 5th setting midrange was mosterous, but top end got mushy.

 

That is a lot of good info, thanks to all who replied. So far I have tried moving the one washer under the clip on #4 and it seems to have helped a bit. It seems like it's loading up a bit more though around town. What do you think about using the stock springs only cutting them down a bit so as to get somewhere in between the stock and the DJ springs?

 

you may try that but just try using the stock springs first and see if there is a improvment .

 

Cutting springs can prove to be inconsistent.