thats enough fuel to fly to the moon if you ask me

 

right on comp! can't wait to hear the reports.

 

It still looks like if you hit a bump, the suspension will compress and hit the bottle but you may have found that out already by now.

 

You got that right. Went for a short ride the other day. Apparently, the rear suspension does articulate a little more than I can make it by bouncing up and down while it's on the stand. It's not contacting the fender much, but J-U-S-T enough to put a tiny little scuff on the fender. I found some end links that will raise the rear an inch, which should do the trick.

I haven't messed w/ much else on the bike just yet besides installing the gauge and experimenting with different wiring/plumbing routes, but we'll get'er done in the next week or so.

I'm also replacing all the cooling hoses with steel braided hose; that's proving to be another one of those projects that doesn't come easy. [:@]

 

Yes, but it will look great! Already does. Can you mount the bottle on the side under the passenger peg bracket. That should clear the rear hugger/ tire. If you get on it and hit a dip or bump in the road, with power on, the suspension will bottom out and rub worse. It will break the hugger and might kick the bottle loose or lock up the tire. If you jack up the back end too much, the bike won't be stable at high speeds and with the N02 speed, downright dangerous.

 

I haven't ruled that out. Still kicking around the idea of mounting it slightly inverted, hanging off the frame rail just above the left passenger peg. I really like the bottle where it's at, but if it proves to be a continuing problem it'll get moved.

 

Still experimenting with the wiring route to go, but I did get the gauge installed and also picked up a 2' steel -4 line.



Had to bore a hole big enough for the b-nut on the line to fit into the trunk.




Zip-tied the solenoid down in the trunk. All I need now is a -4 union to connect the steel line to the solenoid now. We'll pick one up tomorrow.



Next step is to route the plastic line to the airbox. I'm going to drill the hole in the top of the airbox just big enough to fit the hose in, then epoxy it in there. Once my electrical engineer buddy gets a wiring schematic drawn up, we'll press on with the wiring.

 

-4 union now connected and the plumbing is fully tied in:



Switch is installed in the trunk, and labeled so I know which side is what:



If you start at the back of the switch, you'll see the route I used with the wiring & conduit running towards the front of the bike to the horn wiring:



Black conduit on top of the motor contains the wiring to the horn switch, tied in with connectors and taped up for cleanliness:



Small hole bored in airbox lid for the N20 line:



N20 line runs along the frame rail in the bottom of this photo to the airbox lid:




Ran the N20 line out the trunk through an existing hole:



....under the bodywork and drilled another small hole for it to run through:



Here you can see the line under the bodywork:



All that's left now is testing! At least the horn and solenoid work when they're supposed to...

 

Nice progress!

 

Yeah, I'm concerned that if you hit a big dip or bump, you may collapse & damage or rupturethe bottle and it could be dangerous if ignited.