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  #21  
Old 04-26-2018, 02:04 AM
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BTW, you WILL be replacing your clutch with the upgraded Barnett kit, at some point soon, if you enhance a 351 with your exhaust system and a good carb setup..
 
  #22  
Old 04-26-2018, 03:24 AM
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P/n 501-25-06017 is the Barnett clutch springs (38# springs vs 25# stock springs) that are recommended on the clutch upgrade you tube video produced by mr duhfactor. He installs 3 upgraded springs on his 351 big bore with good results. Don’t waste your time on ebc clutch springs, they go soft in no time.
P/n 501-25-06043 are the Barnett clutch springs I received that were only marginally better. But I’ve only experienced slippage on the top of 5th n 6th gears. I found some Honda atc350x clutch springs I will be trying out
 

Last edited by RaceGass; 04-26-2018 at 03:26 AM.
  #23  
Old 04-26-2018, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Klxster
In my universe, his clarification concerning riding scenarios is "on pavement"..
Your universe may vary.. (Apparently.)
You are right, I was wrong. He's racing on pavement. Apparently doesn't understand there is no replacement for displacement to the full extent of his universe.

In other words on pavement if his buddy wants to leave him, he will. If his buddy is a buddy he won't do it on a regular basis. I could do that regularly with my 650, but I like my friends and don't.

I confused the post about hill climbing and such with the first post.

What the OP needs to do is sell the KLX and get a KTM, then go kick his buddy's butt. Buy a 1290 and do it up royal.
 
  #24  
Old 04-26-2018, 02:30 PM
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Wow, really !
You gotta be kidding !
Dammit, stop seeing everything through the lens of your ego and its' "primitive" expectations - you'll find new meanings.. We are "Bro's" , so I'll spell it out to kick you in another gear and allow you to see the reality the rest of us see..
I was referring to myself - in a process of "self correcting" / performing an "attitude adjustment"... In no way are you involved or referred to.

Stop finding trouble..

But yeah, you can call me "A Dick" any time you want bro.. Preferably, when I deserve it...lol
 

Last edited by Klxster; 04-26-2018 at 02:43 PM.
  #25  
Old 04-26-2018, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Klxster
Wow, really !
You gotta be kidding !
Dammit, stop seeing everything through the lens of your ego and its' "primitive" expectations - you'll find new meanings.. We are "Bro's" , so I'll spell it out to kick you in another gear and allow you to see the reality the rest of us see..
I was referring to myself - in a process of "self correcting" / performing an "attitude adjustment"... In no way are you involved or referred to.

Stop finding trouble..

But yeah, you can call me "A Dick" any time you want bro.. Preferably, when I deserve it...lol
I don’t take anything personally. While you’ve been more blunt I’m trying to absorb as much knowledge as I can.

As far as buying a KTM or the Husky, aside from the 701 looking super sexy, I like my KLX. I wasn’t here looking for the secret formula to beat my buddies bike. I just wanted to know if I could shorten the gap or if I was wasting my time. (I’ll still be behind.)

Other Klxster, I found the TM36 on amazon. Going to order tomorrow on pay day. Will I need new cables as well?

Amazon Amazon
 
  #26  
Old 04-26-2018, 09:34 PM
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Depends on your handlebar setup, stock bars you should be OK with stock. Fatbars with risers or just risers you may need a longer cable.
Here is a great site on the TM 36-68 and a bunch of other stuff. KLX250S Home Page
On that site he has a jpeg with dimensions for a longer cable and if you need to modify the cable attachment for an oversized fuel tank.

I am sitting on a TM 36-68 and a Chinese knock off AHL Tong Tong 299cc piston/cylinder kit (~ $150 on amazon). Waiting on my brother (the smart one) to finish his boot camp school to come up and help me install and tune. The dpippin site I referenced above has some good baseline jetting settings. You will probably need some other jets for the Mikuni too. I found them at Niche Cycle Supply and people also use jetsrus. A Keihin FCR 35 is another good option for our KLX's

Crap, I keep thinking of new things, make sure it is the TM 36-68 as there are other 36mm Mikuni's out there and we know the 36-68 fits and we have jetting settings for it. The cable attachment for the 36-68 is on the opposite side of the carb (left) compared to the stock CV 34.
 

Last edited by reinigef; 04-26-2018 at 09:51 PM. Reason: More info.
  #27  
Old 04-26-2018, 09:58 PM
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"Other Klxster" says "hell yeah"...

So now , time for a new thread. You need to attract ALL of our TM36-68 users. They will answer all questions and provide you with the recipe of parts and settings to get your bike running well.. I am not aTM36-68 guru - but we certainly have many here ..

You WILL need to become familiar with the internals of the TM - so that when one of our TM gurus tells you to get a certain item, you'll understand them.. The TM's usually do not arrive with usable setups in them..

So, start researching in here via the search function - all threads and posts pertaining to the TM36-68. Study exploded views etc etc to identify the parts that our peeps generally replace for use on the KLX..

Here is a link that'll get you started - it is from one of our "stickies" and you'll see the "Mikuni TM36-68..." section as well as our "JETTING SPREADSHEET"..................
I looked over the spreadsheet for ya -there are a few entries for use of the TM36-68 on a stockbore - notice that most are on 351'(351 application is not useful for you)..

Richard Avatar did extensive testing of the TM's on his stockbore - definitely research his threads and posts..

Gonna send you a PM ( Private Message) for more information..
 
  #28  
Old 04-28-2018, 11:45 PM
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Sorry I'm late, but it's my turn to butt in and shine. Thy Chris, you're from Kansas? Me too sir, I'm located in Wichita. If you're close by, feel free to come over sometime and I'll let you take my Lexi for a spin and see how you like it. I'm not sure if my signature bar is up to date, but I've done the 351 kit, Bill's pumper carb setup, full FMF exhaust (which Bill says is garbage.....) and an air filter with a lid *no snorkel* covering it. I have the stock gearing, also on a 09sf, and can power wheelie like nobody's ballsy business in first, and with a slight tug in second. Clutch wheelies are possible in higher gears, but I haven't replaced the springs since my plates are about toast anyway.

As far as the DRZ goes and street riding. Pulling from 45-65 with his having the 3x3 mod and even just an exhaust tip on it, he'll pull you every single time. As others have stated, there's no real way to beat him.....trust me *see below*. As far as just keeping up with acceleration and normal riding where you don't want him to get too far ahead, gearing is easier (more teeth up front, or less in the rear for top speed, opposite for torque), but follow their advice on lidless and carb tuning, and I would definitely recommend the MCM, even though I don't have it myself. I completely skipped these steps on mine and went straight for the big bore.

As for racing a DRZ, the KLX has one huge advantage in it's stock 250 form (although an exhaust would be preferred), and that is the LACK of power. Sounds crazy right? The klx does not have enough power stock to really damage itself when jumping the gun from the line. Several times, I would rev to about 4500-5k, dump the clutch and the front end would lift, but not off the ground and I could just take off. The clutch is strong enough to hold the lack of power and shoot you off the line, but you'd have to rap out first gear and get into second quick to keep up with the drz because at that point, he's next to you. After mine was built and tuned, I took it to some Supermoto practice days down in Norman, Ok at the raceway there. The klx is an extremely nimble machine, and if you're not afraid of going down, you can really tuck into those corners. One time when I went there were only 4 or 5 people total, so we didn't exactly practice racing the entire time, we started goofing off and playing follow the leader. Eventually we got around to doing simple drag races for fun, and I quickly called out the DRZ that was there. He looked at me and my bike and laughed, but he wasn't there when I was telling the others about my big bore kit. So we line them up, and we're both revving to get a head start, and when we were flagged I dumped the clutch, bad idea. I didn't flip, but damn was I close. The front wheel came up as high as I've ever had it, and I was struggling to hang on. Of course he beat me by a long distance, but he had never seen a small bike do that before, so we lined up again. This time with less throttle, he got me off the line and pulled away when I shifted into second, but I was catching up to him. It wasn't enough to win, but when I was reaching the top of second and third, I was able to make up some ground.

Sadly, the KLX will never be able to compete with a DRZ as long as there's a decent rider on it. I'm sure if you put a professional racer on a KLX and a semi-pro on the DRZ it would be a very entertaining race, but as stated above, there's no replacement for displacement.
 
  #29  
Old 04-29-2018, 01:39 AM
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Id think the MCM cam timing would be a move in the wrong direction for a street bike. Im never really south of 6000rpm on my SF
 
  #30  
Old 04-29-2018, 03:28 AM
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LemonRX, do you have your dyno and AFR chart, and can you post it?

If your bike is making 30/23 SAE power levels with your mod combo, then that is evidence that the "hand me down" TM36-68 setups for the 351 are " not optimal" (to put it nicely)..
 

Last edited by Klxster; 04-29-2018 at 03:37 AM.


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