My apologies for my comment, it seemed like a shot at me as I do have the KLX in my tag.

I will let his comment speak for itself. Clearly I wasn't in some wrong gear. He seems, in fact, to be in a similar gear to me. Wanting a shade more useable power from 4000-9000 rpm. Thus the pipe, 299cc cylinder, and TM36-68 in my garage waiting for time to build. No screamer needed, it's about roll on and mid-range. Don't need 25 hp at 10,000. Need more spread over a wider range. I am trying the AHL 299cc setup.

As for his question, I'd say if the money is there, play. An on-line search will garner information on the TM36 and the 300 set up is already proven to provide punch. A couple riders here have experience with it. Queen of Spades has done the OEM Kawasaki parts 300 and TNC has done both the carb and the Kaw 300 with a lot of experience. He has given me his jetting, but the email is in another computer. He may have posted it here. TNC is in Texas so it is a base to start from considering any differences. Richard was doing his work in Thailand if I remember right.

Here is the Google search to find TM36-68 jetting for KLX250. Has a number of possible sources.

 

 

I believe Scootr is also in Wichita.. He is running a "full tilt" stockbore - MCM, Full FMF, lidless, DJ144/1N carb setup..

If yall are close, you could get a taste of that power...

 

No problem Thy_Chris. Feel free to send me a pm and we can figure out sometime to meet up. My bike used to be my daily, as they all were after I started riding, but now that I live 30 minutes from work and have to be there in the early morning, I don't feel like waiting on it to warm up properly, and my higher end boss doesn't like me parking outside of the shop, so it's just turned into a goof around bike.

Klxster, I'd be more than happy to share the dyno chart I have, although unfortunately I only have a printout version. Just need to figure out how to upload it.

 

Went back and found my post from when I got it back from the dyno shop. Made it public so I can share this link to it and you all can check it out.
https://www.facebook.com/
travis.lemon.14/posts/10206320394047949

 

Ok, that is DIN power levels.. Which are higher numbers than SAE..Let me work on getting the SAE equivalents..

 

I've had my 351 kit for 300ish trouble free miles so far and this thing is a blast to ride. The mid range power is perfect for my riding style, so happy i took the leap

 

I've had mine installed for about 1000 miles. Just don't get to ride too much anymore, but it's a wonderful transformation. Still need to replace the springs and my clutch plates, but it rides just fine as long as I don't try to rip too hard in 5th or 6th.

 

LemonRX, until or unless your fueling can be tuned/re-tuned well enough to provide a smooth powerband, the only logical choice for analysis is to consider the "mean average" of your power curves and then convert to SAE numbers.

This would conclude to about SAE 28.5 hp and 21.7 lb ft TRQ.

That power level is the norm for a 351+full exhaust+pumper+airbox lid..

What is a crime here is that your dyno shop in Wichita KS is using the European DIN correction factor along with an obviously low smoothing factor - both of which combine to produce inflated peak numbers on a customers' chart.. You need to call those bastards up, get them to run off another chart from your run data with smoothing set to 5 and CF set to SAE - if they sensed AFR, get your AFR chart as well..

 

So it's not too bad then. Nothing abnormal, just average. I'm ok with that. Thanks for clearing all that up too.

Honestly, I'm not calling them, talking to them, or giving them any more service of mine or recommending them to anybody. I told them my clutch was slipping and they checked my plates and told me they were at the very low end of the clearances and would need replacing. I told them to order the plates, the spring upgrade kit, and run the dyno. They changed my oil (which had literally JUST been changed after the last of the break in miles) that only had 4-5 miles on it, with a fresh K&N oil filter, replaced it with a Hi-Flo and Maxum oil (Never heard of it) lengthened my clutch cable, and ran the dyno on old worn out plates that were slipping. Charged me just over $500 for that. If they would have replaced the plates and upgraded the springs like I asked, I wouldn't mind running their ****ty oil for a few miles until I got it home to put good oil in it again, but all they did was pull the cover off, say the plates were in need of replacing, and then put it all back together. They will not see another backside of a penny from me, and I caution other people about taking their business there. Sad thing is, some of my friends have gone there for similar services and had great results.