i had race gas in mine a few weeks ago. honestly i really couldnt tell much i always run 93 in it anyway.

 

+1 rraiderr

Anything above 93 is kind of a waste unless you have a PC and a custom map and can tune the engine totake advantage of the extra octainin the race gas. It's almost akin to my comparing an F-150 using 93 octane gas, it's just way overkill.

Another thing to mention is that race fuel is usually leaded so if our bikes have an O2 sensor (not completely sure but I'm assuming they do to regulate air/fuel ratio) that the leaded fuel will ruin the O2 sensor much faster. Had that happen on my DSM.

 

so should i run 93 octane and a fuel additive all the time when i put on the power comander, exhaust, and BMCair filter. Already got a PCIII, thinking about getting a full racing exhaust, and a street air filter. any suggestions on the combo would be greatly appreciated.

 

PCIII cannot adjust timing so you do not need a fuel additive. If you change timing and compression than would would need to match the fuel octane to the the modifications.

93 octane top tier fuel is all you need. Link if you are not familiar with top tier street fuel. http://www.toptiergas.com/

 

05zx6r I used to know Matt T. He prob doesn't remember me. I used to go there with Kyle T from the club and I used to go on Wed's all the time with Kyle and Matt. I actually ported my 2G header in that barn... small world

 

93 or 91 is better for high compression engines, which include bikes. Like others have said putting it in engines that don't require it is a waste but some of the reasons are a little off. All gas is essentially the same and the specific octanes are made by blending higher and lower octanes together (so pumps that offer 3 choices are really just using two types with different ratios) Also the lower the octane the more pure the fuel is and the more energy it has. This may seem counter-intuitive but fuel manufacturers use additives to raise the octane and make it less combustable, lead was a great additive for that.....except for that whole toxic thing. Lastly the higher the octane the harder it is to burn and the more carbon build up you will get in the engine because of unburnt fuel. A properly matched compression ratio to octane rating avoids this but go too low and you get hotter but power robbing burn (the ping you hear, aka detonation) or go too high and you get a colder partial burn that leaves carbon behind. Moral of the story, go with what the manufacturer recomends, especially if the engine can't modify the timing on its own.

 

not a dsm driver but a sport compact.

my last rides turbo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/Cam_1132.jpg

the engine bay with dohc v6 engine swap, custom welded plenum and exhaust (all my own handy work)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/Cam_0959.jpg

the car
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/Cam_0846.jpg

400whp in a 2600lb car, mid engine rwd. hooked hard. and still handled like a dream