Winter prep for riding (not storage)
I do agree that getting into a $300 winter "beater" would be a lot safer, and probably cheaper in the long run. Heated grips will only take you so far, as will even the best snowmobile gear. I usually end up getting sweaty when riding a sled, because you're working it so hard that it generates a lot of body heat. Not so on a bike. You'll be droning along on the road, trying NOT to make any sudden moves. Once the temps get way down low, you quickly lose your motor skills. That makes driving that much more dangerous...
rgoers, what bikes were you using in those temps? The reason I ask is that I would agree that most motorcycles that have a decently sized battery seem to have a decent cold cranking reserve. The battery on our KLX is pretty marginal IMO, and that's done for a somewhat logical reduction in weight issue. None of my other motorcycle like road bikes and KLR's had this problem, but they had 18 amp or larger batteries. What's a KLX battery?...about 6 amps?
Thanks for all the input and concern.
Already have a pigtail for a battery tender, just not the tender.
I do have a cage, it just happens to be up on blocks, while I slowly fix it. The plan is to fix, inspect, and drive it on snowy days, then I can I fix the truck, then I'll sell the car, and drive the gas hog of a truck. $200 cars up here are usually too rusty to inspect.
So far being cold hasn't been a problem w/o any electrical gear running, I've actually been too warm. The gear I'm using is worlds better than when I rode all year 20 yrs ago. It's wind and waterproof, unlike my thousand layers of yesteryear. I rode to Albany, NY from Princeton, NJ for New Years once...I must have stopped 100 times to do jumping jacks and warm my hands on the exhaust....ah, the power of the opposite sex on common sense!
Going to add on some more wind protection to the Barkbusters(which are pretty damn good on their own). Looking to make something like "Elephant Ears". And get a windshield.
The bike was not the happiest this morning at first, turning over a little slow, but started fine.
I have a radiant propane heater I can stick next to the bike on really cold mornings to help preheat it before starting.
A kick start would be great(just in case), but will have to wait until the 351 change.
I'm committed to this. I'm trying to live like a pauper, so I can pay off all my debt, fix everything that's broke(which seems like everything mechanical I own, except for the klx), and then start saving for a really long trip. Riding the bike lets me have a lot more money to do that, even while adding gear.
My commute is 13 miles of 2 lane country highway to town. I am often the only one on the road, so that helps. Once I get to town it's another 11 miles, the roads are almost always clear, as they are primary roads which get salt and traffic. That part is 25-50mph with SOME(for you people that live in civilization) cars. I'm planning on being ready to ride off the road to avoid being slid into at lights and such.
And I will be wearing armour underneath, because I will go down at some point and might as well offset any damage to myself that I can.
This weekend I plan on taking apart the bike and cleaning all fasteners, putting di-electric(sp?) grease on all electrical connections, and taping up any rubbing spots on the harness. Once the salt hits, I'll spray the bike down at work every couple of days, and I get to park it in the warehouse while I'm working.
DJ - just passed him this evening I think, a Ural Patrol? Saw him out on the Kanc one night in the snow. It was awesome to see him tearing down the road. A guy I work with(also knows that guy) has been riding all year for 3 years (except for when I'd pick him up in the snow!), now it's my turn.
First go in the snow might be tomorrow...and I might just wait for the plow...or stay home if it's too slick.
I'm determined, not stupid. Crazy is another matter.
Already have a pigtail for a battery tender, just not the tender.
I do have a cage, it just happens to be up on blocks, while I slowly fix it. The plan is to fix, inspect, and drive it on snowy days, then I can I fix the truck, then I'll sell the car, and drive the gas hog of a truck. $200 cars up here are usually too rusty to inspect.
So far being cold hasn't been a problem w/o any electrical gear running, I've actually been too warm. The gear I'm using is worlds better than when I rode all year 20 yrs ago. It's wind and waterproof, unlike my thousand layers of yesteryear. I rode to Albany, NY from Princeton, NJ for New Years once...I must have stopped 100 times to do jumping jacks and warm my hands on the exhaust....ah, the power of the opposite sex on common sense!
Going to add on some more wind protection to the Barkbusters(which are pretty damn good on their own). Looking to make something like "Elephant Ears". And get a windshield.
The bike was not the happiest this morning at first, turning over a little slow, but started fine.
I have a radiant propane heater I can stick next to the bike on really cold mornings to help preheat it before starting.
A kick start would be great(just in case), but will have to wait until the 351 change.
I'm committed to this. I'm trying to live like a pauper, so I can pay off all my debt, fix everything that's broke(which seems like everything mechanical I own, except for the klx), and then start saving for a really long trip. Riding the bike lets me have a lot more money to do that, even while adding gear.
My commute is 13 miles of 2 lane country highway to town. I am often the only one on the road, so that helps. Once I get to town it's another 11 miles, the roads are almost always clear, as they are primary roads which get salt and traffic. That part is 25-50mph with SOME(for you people that live in civilization) cars. I'm planning on being ready to ride off the road to avoid being slid into at lights and such.
And I will be wearing armour underneath, because I will go down at some point and might as well offset any damage to myself that I can.
This weekend I plan on taking apart the bike and cleaning all fasteners, putting di-electric(sp?) grease on all electrical connections, and taping up any rubbing spots on the harness. Once the salt hits, I'll spray the bike down at work every couple of days, and I get to park it in the warehouse while I'm working.
DJ - just passed him this evening I think, a Ural Patrol? Saw him out on the Kanc one night in the snow. It was awesome to see him tearing down the road. A guy I work with(also knows that guy) has been riding all year for 3 years (except for when I'd pick him up in the snow!), now it's my turn.
First go in the snow might be tomorrow...and I might just wait for the plow...or stay home if it's too slick.
I'm determined, not stupid. Crazy is another matter.
I have never found cranking capacity of the battery to be an issue, even in temps down to -15C. Rather, I have troubles getting the engine to fire at those low temps. A fuel primer bulb I added helps greatly in this regard.
Otherwise, as others have mentioned, a good suit meant for cold (ie snowmobile suit) will work well in conjunction with thermal socks/gloves/scarf & heated grips. Armour is also smart as much of the snowmobile gear tends to be soft.
I find the ride height of the SF fine in winter but I use boots with good grip and 70/30 tires too.
Wipe the visor down with some anti-fog too.
Very regular chain lube applications are essential if the roads are salted where you are otherwise you'll find the chain will rust FAST.
Otherwise, as others have mentioned, a good suit meant for cold (ie snowmobile suit) will work well in conjunction with thermal socks/gloves/scarf & heated grips. Armour is also smart as much of the snowmobile gear tends to be soft.
I find the ride height of the SF fine in winter but I use boots with good grip and 70/30 tires too.
Wipe the visor down with some anti-fog too.
Very regular chain lube applications are essential if the roads are salted where you are otherwise you'll find the chain will rust FAST.
I have never found cranking capacity of the battery to be an issue, even in temps down to -15C. Rather, I have troubles getting the engine to fire at those low temps. A fuel primer bulb I added helps greatly in this regard.
Otherwise, as others have mentioned, a good suit meant for cold (ie snowmobile suit) will work well in conjunction with thermal socks/gloves/scarf & heated grips. Armour is also smart as much of the snowmobile gear tends to be soft.
I find the ride height of the SF fine in winter but I use boots with good grip and 70/30 tires too.
Wipe the visor down with some anti-fog too.
Very regular chain lube applications are essential if the roads are salted where you are otherwise you'll find the chain will rust FAST.
Otherwise, as others have mentioned, a good suit meant for cold (ie snowmobile suit) will work well in conjunction with thermal socks/gloves/scarf & heated grips. Armour is also smart as much of the snowmobile gear tends to be soft.
I find the ride height of the SF fine in winter but I use boots with good grip and 70/30 tires too.
Wipe the visor down with some anti-fog too.
Very regular chain lube applications are essential if the roads are salted where you are otherwise you'll find the chain will rust FAST.
Read it again... the bikes were sleds. 
They are a LOT harder to crank than a bike is when cold. Twin cylinders, coated with oil that gets REAL thick and sticky in cold temps...
Never really had a problem cranking them in the coldest temps. Didn't put them on a charger all winter either. Just rode them, and let the charging circuit do its work. A lot of times they'd sit outside and I'd have to lift the track and skis before starting them - because they would be frozen to the ground. Trying to ride off on a sled that is frozen to the ground is a sure way to burn up an $80 drive belt... not that I'd know that first-hand.

They are a LOT harder to crank than a bike is when cold. Twin cylinders, coated with oil that gets REAL thick and sticky in cold temps...
Never really had a problem cranking them in the coldest temps. Didn't put them on a charger all winter either. Just rode them, and let the charging circuit do its work. A lot of times they'd sit outside and I'd have to lift the track and skis before starting them - because they would be frozen to the ground. Trying to ride off on a sled that is frozen to the ground is a sure way to burn up an $80 drive belt... not that I'd know that first-hand.
rain has arrived!...i just lubed the wheel bearings, chain and few other moving parts...didn't do the steering bearing...anything else i should be lubing/protecting for rain weather riding?
Are you still on your stock wheel bearings (what mileage)? I was debating pulling the bearing numbers to order a spare set of Timkens or SKFs, but I have no idea to the quality of the OEM bearings, and if I remember right the front is not sealed though the rears are correct? Which means you just greased the fronts?
DJ - just passed him this evening I think, a Ural Patrol? Saw him out on the Kanc one night in the snow. It was awesome to see him tearing down the road. A guy I work with(also knows that guy) has been riding all year for 3 years (except for when I'd pick him up in the snow!), now it's my turn.
Maximus - we've gotta meet up and ride next spring cause I've gotta meet (and buy a beer for) the guy that rode his KLX all winter in western Maine. I've got tons of trails here in Farmington and north/west of here. Also willing to travel your direction. Only distinction for you riding with me is I'm the dude that turned his KLX into a submarine.
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