Winter prep for riding (not storage)
So it was 20ºF this morning.
Well, I knew it was coming.
I've got one functioning vehicle - the klx250.
Lots of Winter shopping - battery powered jacket and gloves, heated insoles, studs, tires, and some sort of lighting to replace/augment the headlight.
While I was shopping for studs(any input would be great) I realized I have no idea how tall a Dunlop 606 knobby is. Got to make a call or two. No big deal.
Also saw they had boot studs...not really an option with the soles on my boots. So a thought I had was to get different dog bones. Currently I can only get my toes down...and since part of that is the nice metal tip, they don't provide much traction... so was thinking for Winter it might be nice to lower the forks and the rear and get my foot almost flat...not many off-road plans for winter, so ground clearance isn't a problem.
Does it sound like a good idea?
And should I be using different fluids for the cold. Average temps will go below freezing (and stay there for far too long) and she'll be sleeping outside. Will I benefit from the Thermobob thingy?
I will be riding in snow and on icy roads, albeit slowly, well slower.
And yes I question my sanity. But I have 2 things in my favor, 1) 3 weeks vacation(I can use some for snow days) and 2) a cool place to work that gets if there's a foot of snow, I'm going to be real late, if I show at all.
Thanks ahead of time.
Well, I knew it was coming.I've got one functioning vehicle - the klx250.

Lots of Winter shopping - battery powered jacket and gloves, heated insoles, studs, tires, and some sort of lighting to replace/augment the headlight.
While I was shopping for studs(any input would be great) I realized I have no idea how tall a Dunlop 606 knobby is. Got to make a call or two. No big deal.
Also saw they had boot studs...not really an option with the soles on my boots. So a thought I had was to get different dog bones. Currently I can only get my toes down...and since part of that is the nice metal tip, they don't provide much traction... so was thinking for Winter it might be nice to lower the forks and the rear and get my foot almost flat...not many off-road plans for winter, so ground clearance isn't a problem.
Does it sound like a good idea?
And should I be using different fluids for the cold. Average temps will go below freezing (and stay there for far too long) and she'll be sleeping outside. Will I benefit from the Thermobob thingy?
I will be riding in snow and on icy roads, albeit slowly, well slower.
And yes I question my sanity. But I have 2 things in my favor, 1) 3 weeks vacation(I can use some for snow days) and 2) a cool place to work that gets if there's a foot of snow, I'm going to be real late, if I show at all.
Thanks ahead of time.
With the bike staying outside, your battery will probably get the biggest challenge. I'd have some kind of battery tender setup on the bike when parked. Some kind of heating device on the engine that doesn't involve flame would sure help start-up in the AM. You might be able to get away with 5W-30 motor oil too if the days don't warm up too much. Just make sure you have at least 50/50 antifreeze, and you should be good. As far as clothing, I like a snowmobile suit.
Hey Maximus,
Your post here reminds me of a winter in the late 80's when I commuted on my '80s LTD 750 through the snowy, friggin cold Pocatello, Idaho winter to school and work. Yes, that was my only ride. Poor school boy and bundled up with all my ski gear, wool socks, boots, etc. No batteries or heated equipment for me at that time. Here's to you! If it don't kill you, it will make you tougher.
I was looking on line the other day for studs and ran across a Canadian company that looked like they had a good product. Don't see that one now, but ran across these Grip Studs™ Screw-In Tire Studs | Traction in Ice, Snow and Dirt | HOME
Look around on-line and see what you can find for traction.
I agree with you on putting on longer dog bones to lower the bike, giving you a lower center of gravity, better foot position, and a little less distance to fall if you go down. I'm not so sure that changing the fork position will be THAT important, but probably good to do it if you can.
There's some good LED auxiliary lamps out there to add some brightness to the road. The trailtech X2 that I'm running is a good improvement over stock, but requires some modification that may not be worth the effort compared to adding some more light.
Consider a pigtail to the battery for a charger unless you're doing enough miles to keep the battery charged.
Fluids? Just make sure the coolant is sufficient for the temps you'll have to endure without freezing.
Thermobob? I put one on the KLX and have one to put on the KLR. I'm a believer if you're looking for motor longevity as they certainly do bring the bike's operating temperature up to where it should be in he cool weather. There's some anecdotal info out there that suggests it helps a KLR650 motor last longer. I haven't seen the same for the KLX, but I think that's because few of us use these as daily commuters in cold weather and care enough to do something about it.
Lastly...GRIP HEATERS. Well worth it. I have the cheap ones on the KLX, and when it's cold, the KLX goes out before the KLR (because I haven't put the heaters on the KLR yet). HUGE difference. Cold hands suck.
Stay safe out there. Cages are looking to slide right into you.
Your post here reminds me of a winter in the late 80's when I commuted on my '80s LTD 750 through the snowy, friggin cold Pocatello, Idaho winter to school and work. Yes, that was my only ride. Poor school boy and bundled up with all my ski gear, wool socks, boots, etc. No batteries or heated equipment for me at that time. Here's to you! If it don't kill you, it will make you tougher.
I was looking on line the other day for studs and ran across a Canadian company that looked like they had a good product. Don't see that one now, but ran across these Grip Studs™ Screw-In Tire Studs | Traction in Ice, Snow and Dirt | HOME
Look around on-line and see what you can find for traction.
I agree with you on putting on longer dog bones to lower the bike, giving you a lower center of gravity, better foot position, and a little less distance to fall if you go down. I'm not so sure that changing the fork position will be THAT important, but probably good to do it if you can.
There's some good LED auxiliary lamps out there to add some brightness to the road. The trailtech X2 that I'm running is a good improvement over stock, but requires some modification that may not be worth the effort compared to adding some more light.
Consider a pigtail to the battery for a charger unless you're doing enough miles to keep the battery charged.
Fluids? Just make sure the coolant is sufficient for the temps you'll have to endure without freezing.
Thermobob? I put one on the KLX and have one to put on the KLR. I'm a believer if you're looking for motor longevity as they certainly do bring the bike's operating temperature up to where it should be in he cool weather. There's some anecdotal info out there that suggests it helps a KLR650 motor last longer. I haven't seen the same for the KLX, but I think that's because few of us use these as daily commuters in cold weather and care enough to do something about it.
Lastly...GRIP HEATERS. Well worth it. I have the cheap ones on the KLX, and when it's cold, the KLX goes out before the KLR (because I haven't put the heaters on the KLR yet). HUGE difference. Cold hands suck.
Stay safe out there. Cages are looking to slide right into you.

I have used this suit for riding in my KLR days when I'd get the bug to do some dirt road cruising on winter days around my home area, and it worked quite well. Anymore, if it's that bitterly cold, I just don't ride. Commuting during the winter in an area that has real winters takes a real commitment...and proper gear. The beauty of a snowmobile suit IMO is that most of them are easily worn over other clothing and they're relatively easy to put on and take off. If you go to an indoor job on a motorcycle where you're wearing a bunch of really warm undergarments, it really becomes a hassle when you arrive or prepare to leave to deal with those kinds of clothes. A snowmobile suit makes that task relatively painless.
That was my thought too. For the amount of money you are spending on getting the bike ready for winter you could buy a real cheap car. I have seen cars that would run for at least 3 or 4 months sell for $200.
I have to agree with CMOTT. After living in Alaska (12yr) and Wisconsin (21) any cage you can afford is safer in so many ways. If parked outside all night a block heater is an engine saver. Buying directly from a owner often can save you sales tax depending on your state law. It's not only the frequent slick roads but cold affects our reflex/reaction time. Best wishes however you tackle winter.
Good luck Maximus. Winter in Maine is tough on a bike. There's a guy in Madison who rides his bike all year, but only because he has a sidecar on. Those studs that turn lake ice into pavement can also turn pavement into lake ice if you know what I mean.
A good snowmobile suit is your best bet. I bought one at my favorite store Canadian Tire (in Lac Megantic). Last years model for $50. One piece. Awesome for the sled or the bike in cold weather.
A good snowmobile suit is your best bet. I bought one at my favorite store Canadian Tire (in Lac Megantic). Last years model for $50. One piece. Awesome for the sled or the bike in cold weather.


