ah yes those "friction modifiers"

 

Once my bike hits 1000 miles I am going to switch Mobil 1 4T 10w-40.

I run Mobil 1 in my Ranger and Castrol Synthetic Blend in my Cherokee. The Cherokee has 128k and engine is still running strong (although those engines are known to go 300k). I just like the piece of mind knowing at high RPM's my oil is protecting my engine. As for my vehicles I like the extended oil changes and added protection in the long run (or so im told, haha). The Ranger will be the true test, I started the Synthetic at 35k and it’s at 50k and I plan to keep it for the long run so we will see how that goes...

-Nick

 

To 09KLX...

Yes I'm running regular dino oil for cars. There are no friction modifiers or additives in the Mobil 10-40 that I'm using. Its what I've run in every 3 wheeler, quad, and now my KLX from the early 80's on up. No oil burners, no oil consumption, no blown engines. The KLX is at 8000 miles and its changed every 1000 miles. If you are running in hare scrambles or generally just pounding the **** out of the bike then I can see the advantages to synthetic due to its high heat characteristics. As it is you have to work to even get the fan to come on, the wee KLX is not a high heat high stress engine, unless thats how you treat it.

 

synthetic also has low temp advantages - far outperforming regular oils in cold startup protection. but yeah its biggest advantage is for protection against high heat coking.

 

Then synthetic all the way. Its just better protection in the extreme heat, cold, and pressures. And when its 100+F degrees outside, I like knowing the engine is running as cool as it can. Plus the extended drain intervals.

 

Gets hot down here. Gonna go with the fully synthetic.[sm=badbadbad.gif]

Perth, Western Australia
February 2008 Daily Weather Observations

A combination of observations from Mount Lawley and Perth Airport.
Date Day Temps Rain Evap Sun Max wind gust 9 am 3 pm
Min Max Dir Spd Time Temp RH Cld Dir Spd MSLP Temp RH Cld Dir Spd MSLP
°C °C mm mm hours km/h local °C % 8th km/h hPa °C % 8th km/h hPa
1 Fr 19.4 35.4 0 10.4 12.8 E 39 05:12 22.6 64 1 E 19 1012.0 34.5 33 2 S 13 1007.8
2 Sa 21.4 37.3 0 10.8 11.9 ESE 37 00:05 24.9 60 6 E 11 1009.0 36.0 29 1 E 11 1005.7
3 Su 23.9 36.9 0 11.8 11.8 SE 44 22:14 27.7 50 3 ENE 17 1007.6 34.8 34 7 SSW 22 1004.3
4 Mo 22.1 36.1 0 12.6 9.5 ESE 41 20:30 24.8 61 7 ESE 11 1007.9 34.5 35 7 ENE 17 1005.3
5 Tu 24.8 35.9 0 11.6 4.5 ENE 35 07:57 27.3 51 7 NE 17 1009.6 34.5 33 7 NE 13 1007.6
6 We 23.9 35.2 0 9.4 6.2 ENE 46 21:56 27.7 46 3 ENE 11 1009.9 34.7 29 7 E 13 1005.8
[quote]ORIGINAL: Kohburn

synthetic also has low temp advantages - far outperforming regular oils in cold startup protection. but yeah its biggest advantage is for protection against high heat coking.

 

As all things change, so has oil, and it has changed in the lat 6 months, much less the last 6 years or more.

There is definitely a difference between M/C and Automotive oil beyonf Friction Modifiers, and almost all oils have Friction Modifiers in them regardless of the Energy Doghnut.

Regardless of Brand, I Always recommend using MotorCycle Specific oil with a JASO Rating of MA, better yet, MA 2, but never MB in a street bike.

The following link is a test on the most popular M/C oils on the market and were performed by Several of the Top Testing Facilities in the US.

Pick the proper grade oil for your bike (Not what you want) and pick any of the top 3 oils and you will not have any problems.

www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf


Doc

 

Spectra Gold, semi synthetic... i've said this before and been shot done, so i'll try again (and probably get shot down again) i thought a fully synthetic would make your clutch build a layer over it or something? or make it slip eventually? i dont know, thats what the dude said at the dealer where i bought the bike. anway i've been running the spectra gold, synthetic blend 10-40w from 600 miles, till now... (9,000+ miles) everything is fine so far.

 

Synthetic only adheres to the metal surface better. So when the engine is stopped, a trace film of oil is still clinging onto the metal surface. Helps prevent a dry start.

Nice on the oil report document. But I gotta say, I don't like the results of some oils. Its a report for Amsoil. So it conflicts with my use of Royal Purple oils. I'm not changing.

 

After rebuilding many engines using many different oils...(all big diesels)..The best results were from engines that ran the Amsoil.
I did 2 series 60 detroits that were both rated 425/500 hp and one was a die hard pennzoil user and that was in framed at 539,000 miles and 24,592 hours.The second was the same hp rating and it had 1,423,837 miles and 47,629 hours......The insides of the engines were very similar.Heavy main and rod wear and the typical ring wear...The cats....4 motors (only 1 running amsoil) the amsoil motor showed the best results of having more hours and miles of all 4.....
Most of our customers use Mobil Delvac 1300 and, yeah, they show excellent results under normal service intervals of 15-25,000 miles in over the road truck use.The amsoil was being run at drain intervals of about 50-75,000 miles with one filter swap at the halfway interval.....for bang for the buck the amsoil would hit the point home.
Myself.My pickup ( Dodge dakota 4x4 3.9l v-6) is running Amsoil 12-tbn 10w-30 diesel engine oil and i have over 16,000 miles on the engine oil and i'm coming up for the once yearly change.....I dropped one filter at 6000 miles and i've been too lazy to do the full service yet.....I'm not worried though after the stuff i've seen.
My KLX runs 10w-40 Amsoil.
My old KDX250 air cooled beast runs Amsoil 100:1 premix and it honestly dropped the cylinder and head temp by almost 80 degrees.......#'s talk for me and i used my raytech gun to check so i would know the temp drop.....The KDX250 was the first true test for me because i didn't believe it....I did after that and i now use only thier products.....In the end i really save money by extending the drain intervals anyhow.I've also seen the benefits in heavy equipment.I switched a powershift trans and final drives in a D6C Cat dozer over to the amsoil and (3400 hours machine) It pushed more material than i ever would have dreamed afterwards for what the machine was......In the same conditions and on the same site as well......sure it's expensive but in the end you will save after the inital cost.
NOTICE...I did not bash any other oils that people use......eh....you guys use what you want but i've got my own results and answers....