Weird sporadic noise
#31
07-04-2010, 04:35 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 175
The box is universal, the plug n play is for rhino. Correct. Yes the stock map on AU bike is 35 degrees but they also have no cat in their exhaust and they have a tps sensor. The map switches by grounding a wire. I'm sure I can figure something with the carb to do so. And yes, this will cause more fatigue. That's why kxf models require a new piston every 11 hours.
#32
07-04-2010, 04:38 AM
Gary, I was curious about the MSD box that sw0 pictured on another thread. I'm currently an MSD user myself and have used their products on many of my vehicles over the years, so I was curious about this...never had heard of it. It's an MSD 4217 ignition/timing box that's shown on their site for single cylinder engines. I couldn't find a specific application chart, but the text stated it fits ignition systems that are Hall effect or magnetic trigger design if I remember correctly. It's a pricey unit at about $300. It states that it also boosts the spark energy as well as manipulating timing. The odd thing was that MSD's text only spoke of it's application on a Yamaha Rhino ATV, but maybe that was the only plug-and-play setup they offered at this time. Interesting, but I have no real knowledge about this item.
Not sure what the MSD curve is though. How soon does it advance to 35deg ?
#33
07-04-2010, 12:48 PM
so is there a part number in the AU box and will it swap into the US bikes?
do we have to run higher octane fuel?
I already have a CRF250X for the peaky pipy performance and my KLX is truly the dual sport that i can ride the wheels off and change the oil when i remember to.
I think the big bore down low torque is the perfect bike for my needs.
The only thing i would change if possible is to make it even bigger and not increase the weight.
I would like 650cc in the same weight package, with no maintenance.
do we have to run higher octane fuel?
I already have a CRF250X for the peaky pipy performance and my KLX is truly the dual sport that i can ride the wheels off and change the oil when i remember to.
I think the big bore down low torque is the perfect bike for my needs.
The only thing i would change if possible is to make it even bigger and not increase the weight.
I would like 650cc in the same weight package, with no maintenance.
#34
07-04-2010, 01:34 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 175
I'm curently running the KLX250ES CDI which gives 10deg BTDC at idle and 35deg BTDC at 5000RPM. It's not overly aggressive, especially when compared with 40deg BTDC at 3000RPM for the KLX300R. The old KLX250R had a slightly less aggressive 40deg BTDC at 5000RPM for MBT considerations due to the smaller displacement.
Not sure what the MSD curve is though. How soon does it advance to 35deg ?
Not sure what the MSD curve is though. How soon does it advance to 35deg ?
Last edited by sw0ggd0gg; 07-04-2010 at 01:36 PM.
#35
07-04-2010, 02:28 PM
Is screwing with the spark timing really a cost effective mod for this bike? You say you spent $500 on a programmable ignition - what kind of power gains does that give on this tiny engine?! It seems like a waste of money to me when a big bore is $30 more.. I dunno.. I guess I'm missing something.
#36
07-04-2010, 06:06 PM
After doing the free mods,exhaust, jetkit, air filter, header, pumper carb, big bore in that sequence I would have to say that the big bore was the biggest improvement for the $$$.
If I had to do it again it would be big bore, jet kit, exhaust, header, air filter, pumper carb.
The pumper carbs instant response w/ the big bore is very aggressive, I don't know how much better it could be w/ a msd ignition. But thats what I thought about the pumper carb before I tried it....
If I had to do it again it would be big bore, jet kit, exhaust, header, air filter, pumper carb.
The pumper carbs instant response w/ the big bore is very aggressive, I don't know how much better it could be w/ a msd ignition. But thats what I thought about the pumper carb before I tried it....
#37
07-05-2010, 12:23 PM
I'm willing to say the ignition is a waste of money.
I've upgraded ignitions in race cars, that makes a bit of a difference.. But a one cylinder 250 with 18hp ... I just don't see how it could be a cost-effective mod on this bike.
I've upgraded ignitions in race cars, that makes a bit of a difference.. But a one cylinder 250 with 18hp ... I just don't see how it could be a cost-effective mod on this bike.
#38
07-08-2010, 01:23 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 175
The msd programmable ignition is $288. And it's completely adjustable. The au version of this bike is 27 paper hp vs 20. Due to jetting cat less pipe and advanced ignition.
At any rate I got my bike all back together. New chain, big bore 340 pipe jet kit. No leaks no noises everything to spec.
At any rate I got my bike all back together. New chain, big bore 340 pipe jet kit. No leaks no noises everything to spec.
#39
07-08-2010, 02:59 AM
swOggdOgg
Glad to hear all came out good in the end. In you opinion was changeing the timeing chain a PIA? I suspect I may need to change mine. I dont look forward to it as I am paranoid about not aligning everything correctly.
Cheers Jim
Glad to hear all came out good in the end. In you opinion was changeing the timeing chain a PIA? I suspect I may need to change mine. I dont look forward to it as I am paranoid about not aligning everything correctly.
Cheers Jim
#40
07-08-2010, 04:12 AM
mits, you pretty much have to strip the right side of the engine...cover, clutch basket, crank gear. That's not as big an issue as it sounds, but some work regardless. When doing a top end job, it's not much more work, but otherwise you have also have to pull the cams and their guide rubbing blocks.
The clutch basket and crank gear pretty much require a 1/2" air impact wrench. Reinstallation and torquing those two nuts back to the proper torque, however, was a pleasant surprise. I didn't need that crank/flywheel holder tool. Installing the crank gear to proper torque involved was achieved by holding the flywheel nut with a breaker bar...they tighten against each other. Those two nuts are close enough in torque value to enable this without issue. The clutch basket nut is torqued while holding the crank not in a tightening direction...the crank nut already being at much higher torque than the clutch, and they tighten against each other.
It almost looks like you can get the chain out without pulling the crank gear, but it's just too small a space.
The clutch basket and crank gear pretty much require a 1/2" air impact wrench. Reinstallation and torquing those two nuts back to the proper torque, however, was a pleasant surprise. I didn't need that crank/flywheel holder tool. Installing the crank gear to proper torque involved was achieved by holding the flywheel nut with a breaker bar...they tighten against each other. Those two nuts are close enough in torque value to enable this without issue. The clutch basket nut is torqued while holding the crank not in a tightening direction...the crank nut already being at much higher torque than the clutch, and they tighten against each other.
It almost looks like you can get the chain out without pulling the crank gear, but it's just too small a space.