What? The shim set inside the keeper and the caps slide right on. I dunno if you maybe though you had to use the magnet because when you take the caps off the shim is stuck to cap? But you just take it off and slip the shim into the keeper. No need for magnets. It does look like they are attached to caps though.

 

No I know where they go but if I recall I removed as little as possible to remove the valve cover and it seemd easier for me to hit the forward two that way than risk dropping a shim down the side of the engine or bumping it off its perch when I put the bucket in.
Worked great for me but do yours however you like. I also used the magnet to remove the buckets so the shim would be sure to stay in. The last thing I wanted was a shim to drop down into the engine
Cheers Jim

 

I did that one time,,, I pulled my top end apart and put the piston in upside down..


i think Swoggy is pullin our leg.
A few post ago someone said this thread is getting boring and nobody to banter with.
SwogDog i believe is an alias for IOWA guy.

 

Right, I'll post pics of all the broken parts tonight. I couldn't make this up. Right now I got my clutch on the floor waiting for a timing chain. I can't ride and I'm getting pissed.

 

here ya go jerks

 

Any one of the problems you spoke of would have halted installation until fresh parts could be found, at least for my wifes bike.

Catastrophic calamity would have ensued if I ran it.

Better luck in the future

Yer pics made for some believeability

But the rant - Fail

Happy 4th

 

sw0, if it's not leg-pulling...and your pics may indicate that it's not...then it's extremely bad wrenching. I don't say that to make fun of you, but you must admit that you've done some real damage during your efforts. By your own admission you've dropped things in the motor and mis-installed items. I think most of us on this forum support DIY and home wrenching whenever possible, but you also have to know when you're in over your head. Maybe you will never make these mistakes again, and perhaps you've learned a great deal. However, you also need to know if home wrenching is really your thing. To admit that it's not is nothing to be ashamed of, and in fact can be a wise choice in the long run. It's also possible that you've just had a really bad run of luck here, but that sounds unlikely. I notice that you're going to install an MSD ingnition/timing box on your bike. In reading up on the description of this unit on MSD's site, I think you'd better be careful about how you apply that timing curve. Based on the luck you've had up to this point, I see a big hole burned in the next piston.

 

Well I have built a ton of Honda cars with up to 400 hp turbo setup and one 320 hp na build. Tuned them all too. This was just horrible bad luck I had. It's the first bike I ever wrenched on too. As far as the timing goes. I'm making the curve exact to stock AU specs. 35 degrees instead of 25. Nothing more. 35 is a hell of a lot but it's whatever the book says. I also have a WOT switch to engage the secondary timing map. So I'm not running 35 degrees at partial throttle.

But yeah this is the worst attempt at modifications I have ever had. I was too focused on the outcome rather than the small parts. So yeah point the finge at me. I never blamed anyone for my problems in the first place. I was just saying. But as far as quality of parts. They are awesome.

 

Is that the stock piston?
is it the piston that was matched to the stock cylinder?
usually have to have significant wear and piston slap to break off a skirt unless it was fatigued. maybe it was thrown around and mishandled when removed, thinking it would never get put back in.
I am assuming since you build race car motors though that you checked the bore and the piston, and the ring gap before you reinstalled the stock cylinder and piston ( new rings with a hone i hope).
I would never have put the old stuff back in.
How do the Aussie bikes get that much timing? is there a module for sale that has the curve built in? why do you have to have a WOT switch and how do you propose to manage it? hook it to the carb? handle bars?

 

Gary, I was curious about the MSD box that sw0 pictured on another thread. I'm currently an MSD user myself and have used their products on many of my vehicles over the years, so I was curious about this...never had heard of it. It's an MSD 4217 ignition/timing box that's shown on their site for single cylinder engines. I couldn't find a specific application chart, but the text stated it fits ignition systems that are Hall effect or magnetic trigger design if I remember correctly. It's a pricey unit at about $300. It states that it also boosts the spark energy as well as manipulating timing. The odd thing was that MSD's text only spoke of it's application on a Yamaha Rhino ATV, but maybe that was the only plug-and-play setup they offered at this time. Interesting, but I have no real knowledge about this item.