Which way do the valve clearances wear?

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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by LearjetMinako
So the cam valve gap shrinks? Makes sense with the valve still seating in the head. Guess maybe I should check mine at the 10k mile mark. Haven't checked them since when I did the cam chain at 5k miles, and I got 8k miles now.
Yup makes sense. I asked the question because I didn't know what wore, and changed the gap. I was thinking the cam or the bucket wore and as it did the gap got larger. The valves wearing deeper into the head makes more sense. Also makes sense that as they wear into the head further, the gap between bucket and cam gets smaller.
 
Old May 11, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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How close are you to finishing up the 351 "mod?"
 
Old May 11, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by armycopter
How close are you to finishing up the 351 "mod?"
The hard parts done...... I got started on it. LOL Started pulling stuff off last Sunday (mothers day morning, the wife likes to sleep in). Only worked on it for a little bit, and haven't re-visited it yet. I'm ready to start pulling the engine apart, but I'd really like a decent chunk of time to do it. I hate to keep starting and stopping, I'm afraid I'll forget something. I don't think I can leave it alone though, so I might work on it some tonight. I have all the little stuff off, and cleaned up. It's amazing how much hidden dirt you find when you start removing parts.
Dan
 
Old May 11, 2010 | 11:49 PM
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Good luck, I can't wait to hear the results. I think you'll be good keeping your 38 pilot jet. I'm thinking the 40 is a bit too much for mine. Mine will still idle with the fuel screw turned all the way in. I may go back down to the 38 soon, although it's running great so maybe not.
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 03:50 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by armycopter
Good luck, I can't wait to hear the results. I think you'll be good keeping your 38 pilot jet. I'm thinking the 40 is a bit too much for mine. Mine will still idle with the fuel screw turned all the way in. I may go back down to the 38 soon, although it's running great so maybe not.
Ha ha I think the day you posted that, I got the #40 pilot jet in the mail. Now I'm not sure whether to go 38 or 40, I may start with the 40 anyway??? Bike is torn down to the cylinder. Head is off. I'm busy tomorrow, but I have Saturday blocked off to work on the bike. I think you mentioned it, but wow were those cylinder head bolts tight! They almost make you question if your turning the wrench the right way. I'm snapping some pics as i go, and i'll post them up later.
Dan
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #16  
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Like I said, the bike seems to be running well with the 40, I'm just used to the bike stalling out when the fuel screw gets turned all the way in. Now it just idles a little rougher. My fuel screw is at about 1.25 turns out now which seems to be right in the middle. It's been a blast running with all low end power. I love the bike, now if I could just get my front end stabilized

Can't wait to hear your report on how you like the added TQ when you get it back together...
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dan888
Thanks fellers, I didn't know what wore. Valve seats wearing makes sense. I will have to keep an eye on the exhaust clearances then I guess.
Thanks Dan

Not the valve seats. The valves themselves become cup-shaped from closing against the harder seat.
 
Old May 20, 2010 | 10:37 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by LearjetMinako
So the cam valve gap shrinks? Makes sense with the valve still seating in the head. Guess maybe I should check mine at the 10k mile mark. Haven't checked them since when I did the cam chain at 5k miles, and I got 8k miles now.
Just checked mine at 13,600 miles. The valves are still in spec from new (inspected twice, never moved them) and everything looks brand new. There's not a mark on the cam lobes even. I have the 300cc kit. I run Amsoil 10W40 and change it at 1200 miles.
 

Last edited by mhammer; May 21, 2010 at 10:43 AM.
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