UPDATE***Rear disc grinding Do-it-Yourself UPDATE***
#31
Ow we have a machine shop here in the Carquest store, but I took the rotor in and they just looked like at me with that Gomer Pile stare and sent me on my way. I may be out in the middle of nowhere but I wouldn't trade it for anything.
Forks......
Forks......
#33
Thats not hot enough. Hot enough is when the rotor starts to turn a dull red. Usually around the 400+*F mark. So really your sanding job could not really warp the rotor. Unless you applied all the sanding to one point for a long time.
Re-check your bolts and consider checking beyond the rotor. Like the axle bolts and so forth.
Re-check your bolts and consider checking beyond the rotor. Like the axle bolts and so forth.
#34
Update: Since I linked this thread into another one I have to say that my rear brake settled down and is working perfect. I think the pads just had to find their way after the change.
#35
... and HOW long did that atke you??? Man, you work cheap!!! Hey, I've got a bunch of weeds that need to be pulled. Can I hire you at your $2.47/hr rate?
#36
Three years later?
#39
45,000 miles front and rear rotors original, grooves and all. I only remember once briefly having any noise. I cleaned everything up and good to go.
The rationale:
This was presented as an argument against turning rotors on cars and applicable to motorcycles. It was presented to us by an engineer, former motor cop, and pro road racer (TZ750) when my friend was going to have his brakes on his Honda Civic turned.
Take it for what it is worth, nothing more. As I said, it's worked for over 45,000 miles on a well used KLX650C. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I haven't. Pure off roading will obviously wear rotors faster than my dirt/gravel play though.
The rationale:
- The grooves are high and low spots, peaks and valleys, which actually increase swept area. Real advantage or not, still a fact.
- The ridges have a minor "fin" effect and will promote cooling, however minisule it may be, it is still a fact
- Leaving the ridges keeps more metal to absorb heat from the braking process and is less likely to warp.
- If a rotor has warped it won't be due to ridges and grooving, it will be due to the metalurgical make up of the rotor which may have developed surface temper conditions due to excessive heating and/or cooling, it will warp again after turning once enough heat gets in the rotor. This I have found true on my old Mazda 626.
- Turning or grinding a rotor shortens rotor life by removing wear surface.
- Most brake chatter is related to glazing of pads or dirt on pads
This was presented as an argument against turning rotors on cars and applicable to motorcycles. It was presented to us by an engineer, former motor cop, and pro road racer (TZ750) when my friend was going to have his brakes on his Honda Civic turned.
Take it for what it is worth, nothing more. As I said, it's worked for over 45,000 miles on a well used KLX650C. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I haven't. Pure off roading will obviously wear rotors faster than my dirt/gravel play though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post