How are you going to even the tensions in the spokes. I have done bicycle rims and the tensions are pretty high there, I would imagine that the moto wheel is even higher.

 

i plan to make a stand, and use spoke torque tools to get everything into spec.

 

Actually it's pretty easy. I'd venture to say most people don't use spoke torque wrenches, but rather go by sound. Especially not uncommon on off roaders, where it might need done in the pits. I have used a Craftsman 6mm on the rims I did since that was the size of the spoke flats. Snug up spokes a bit then start working around the rim for radial run out, then side to side. Eventually working toward an even "ping" sound from all spokes, pretty much equal. Since I never used a spoke torque wrench I don't know how much variation there may be. Could be possible due to differing spoke characteristics and rim variations, that a consistent torque from spoke to spoke may not pull the rim to alignment. Did you do bicycle wheels by plucking the spokes for the tone?

FWIW, I have used wire pointers attached to swing arms and forks as well as having used a dial indicator on the rim when truing motorcycle wheels. Both are essentially truing stands on the bike. The advantage is you are trueing the rim where it will actually be secured, making it easier to get the offset right, too. On the rear it is a good idea to measure the offset to the swing arm and figure what the ratio is side to side for calculation if you lace up a wider/narrower width or larger/smaller diameter rim. The chain side is usually out a bit further for the sprockets, not centered. The front is pretty much centered. It's amazing just how close one can get with a wire indicator and a scale/ruler to verify centering.

Having done a heck of a lot of bicycle wheels it was easy to true the motorcycle rim. Bicycle wheels can be pulled out of round (egged) quite easily and are very sensitive to the slightest change loosening or tightening a spoke. Exact opposite on build. You cannot flex a motorcycle spoke to get it in a hole. That was what made the bikes so much easier. Bad part on bikes is having to have a really true rim for the rim braking surface.

 

I've always gone by sound and a visual check of the threads showing when building wheels. Also use a little lube it'll help get even tension

 

"Ping" versus "ponk"

 

making me feel like a torque **** now haha

 

I would use the torque wrench if I had one,but with all I've done and learned, I'm not spending the money. I don't remember any of the mechanics using them when I worked in a dealership. Again, not to say it's bad or anything negative about using them, just that I didn't... you torque **** you!

 

@MaximusPrime Do you remember when you did the rear wheel how the spoke pattern was? I too tried to buy some aftermarket black nipples and they were too big for my rim holes, but too small for the spoke threads so i returned them and cleaned up my stock nipples. I should have paid more attention to when i disassembled them, but didnt.

I'm trying to figure out if the long spokes all go on the Left Hand side and the short spokes go on the Right Hand side, like the OEM diagram kind of says (They dont show orientation, the two spoke part numbers just say LH and RH) or if i should have done what the majority of the youtube videos said and to the longer spoke on the inside of the the hub and the short spokes on the outside of the hub, having both long and short on either side of the hub. \

I assembled it with the long spokes on the left side and short spokes on the right side. Everything seems ok, but before i start dialing it in i just want to be sure i did it the right way.

Any insight would be helpful. Thanks in advance!

 

I'm sorry but I don't remember.
But if you look at your hub in relation to the swing arm you should be able to see any offset. If it's noticeable the longer spokes go on the side further away. If it's not then it might be an inside versus outside spoke deal.
Sorry I can't be more help.

 

No worries at all, appreciate the response!