what problems give some examples...
what do you mean adjusting the idle speed with the frign fuel screw? you think I'm trying to adjust the Rpm and idle with the fuel screw?!

Right now the fuel screw is set to 2.25 (which is too rich at idle) and I've just been adjusting the idle speed with the IDLE SCREW
I set the idle speed to 1300 rpm right after it warmed up and after riding it moved up to almost 2k so thats why I decreased the speed ...which made it hard to restart since it was too low.. (this is always how I set the idle speed and air fuel mixture)
I guess I wrote it wrong in my thread.... I meant it moved up to 2k rpm by itself

heres another thing that might be a problem... I will let the bike sit for +1 hour and ill open the gas cap and there will always be a little bit of gas along the filler lip


I gave you the results of setting the fuel screw to 2.5 and 1300 idle speed (idle screw NOT the fuel screw). didnt work out
I think I should swap to a 35 pilot jet instead, inspect the float needle and adjust the float height.
then the carb shouldn't be giving me any problems. maybe could use a tiny bit more air at 1/3-full throttle.

 

That is something I think I've read about long ago - the 2k idle when hot.. Or maybe that is something I've run into myself, decades ago... Doesn't matter, what matters is that if you continue to fool with pilot jets, fuel screws, and idle screws, for a problem that does not involve any of them, you'll need to up your meds or go crazy..

You have a fault in the carb. And possibly in fuel delivery from the fuel tank.. Possibly an air leak, Possibly improper venting of the carb bowl or gas tank,, etc etc... Get the float level checked and correct. Make sure the slide is functioning properly and not sticking. Make sure the slide spring is indexed in the cap tangs. Make sure the pilot jet is not clogged and that all its' aeration holes are clear of clogs.. etc. etc etc etc

There are a zillion things a newb might do to cause such a fault.. If you have trouble "breaking your cycle of addiction" (Fuel screw / idle screw / pilot jets, repeat) - Look at your AFR gauge when its' idling at 1300 and again when it has raised itself to 2000 - and realize that none of those three objects can cause the AFR differences you are seeing - their collective IQ is "0" , they cannot even perceive the outside world.

 

first ill make sure if its even raising to 2000rpm

I dont think any of the jets could be clogged I just put the new ones in not to long ago.
the slide could be an issue ...
the float could be an issue too...
I'm just going to bring it to a shop and have the float adjusted and then ask them to check everything else.

 

well I think I found the problem boys

I know I'm a noob ...but I'm assuming this is too low .
dont mind the drain screw. I know.. its an embarrassment

although it doesn't match why I'm getting richer idle readings... if the float was low shouldn't that mean the bike runs leaner?

 

Okay, here's what you're going to want to do. At least what I did.
Get a can to dump fuel in. Close the petcock, point the hose into the can, open the drain screw and let some fuel out, then point the hose back up. The fuel level should be low. Hold the tube without moving it. Open the petcock and see where the fuel level rises to. Rinse and repeat a few times to where you are getting consistent levels/measurements. Then let us know.

 

Wait nvm ... the first try was with the bike un leveled
heres a new measurement with the bike as straight as possible.



my procedure was , close pet **** drain fuel ... then I setup the hose then opened the petcock.

 

Good. Now put the hose on the right side of the carb since it appears the carb is not level, with right side lower than the left side.

 

do you mean should try to get the bike on a little incline ?
the bike is just sitting up straight with the carb on the bike...dont think its necessary to make it more leveled.



heres the new plug after 130 miles
and heres how much fuel I got from a full bowl, looks like more than a bowl can hold but maybe I'm wrong....

 

update:
knocking went away and bike runs perfect now!

sorry if wasted anyone's time with this mysterious issue.
I set the fuel screw to like 2.1 turns out...and the bike runs good

I know someone said 2.5 turns but it wasn't working for my bike a fully stock 250s with the EPA removed and plugged. and dynojet 116 main with the needle and spacer and 38 pilot.

 

If the carb is level side-to-side and front-to-back, you're good. The photo made it look low to the right.