I have a 340 kit, Two bros Fully exhaust, dynojet kit, snork out. Runnign 128 main and needle second clip. 1.75-2 turns on a/f screw.

28.3 WHP and 21 Ft lb. not bad for the little bike.

My afr was a little rich like 12.9-13.5 WOT but its definitely acceptable. Especially when its 90 degrees out. Itll be safer for winter months.

My cruising afr under 5k was acceptable like 13.5-14

After 5k the ignition switches to more advanced curve so it ran a little leaner until half throttle which was normal.

 

A touch lean, but almost perfect at WOT. Under 12.5 would be a little rich. Ideal is roughly 12.8-13.2, and you're right there.

 

what kind of dyno was this on? and whats your elevation? those are pretty impressive numbers.

 

Do you have any dyno sheets?

I would be interested to see what rpm your motor makes max HP and torque at?

Here are a few of my sheets from my dyno run. I have a BB351cc, web 101 cam, ported & polished, FMF powerbomb, 2Bro silencer, BB34mm carb, and kdx snorkle.

 

One of these days I want to see dyno runs of one same motor with
- no airbox lid
- lid on, no snorkel
- KDX snorkel
- stock snorkel

--
Mikko

 

Nice Will, a solid 33 hp, that head work was worth it. especially considering it started at 18 hp or so.

Hey, d0gg .... post up your dyno if you can.

 

You do know that Stochiometric efficiency of a combustion engine is 14.7:1

Anything less than 14.7:1 is rich, anything more than that is lean

Dont believe me, call me a liar then read it for yourself

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

 

Another expert.
You can run your bike at 14.7, but I won't.

Do a search for best power air fuel ratio. Let me know what you find.

Looking at those numbers again, he's so close to perfect at WOT, I wouldn't touch the main.

 

I agree with what he is saying. 12's are rich... 13.5-14 is about as perfect as your going to get with the additives in the pump gas in the US.

 

You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.