Open Ended Handgaurds!!!!

Old Oct 4, 2011 | 03:35 AM
  #11  
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 02:17 PM
  #12  
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With the Acerbis Rally Pro wraparound ones do you still have to drill out the bar ends if I have protaper bars instead of the factory ones?
 
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 04:08 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by seth6025
With the Acerbis Rally Pro wraparound ones do you still have to drill out the bar ends if I have protaper bars instead of the factory ones?
I used a Dremel tool with a carbide cutter tip to grind off the 3 tack-welds on each slug. Took me only a few minutes to remove each side... I don't know why folks make such a big deal over the slugs Kawi put in there. If they had run the bead all the way around, instead of placing 3 small tack welds, then I could see complaining about it... It took me WAY longer to modify the guards to allow clearance for the brake line and clutch cables, than it did to get those slugs out of there.

Note to self - if you do use a carbide cutter to grind the welds, wear gloves!!! Trust me... I was still picking microscopic metal slivers out of my hands days after I did the handguard installation.
 

Last edited by rgoers; Oct 4, 2011 at 04:45 PM.
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #14  
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Having closed lever guards which attach at the bar ends has saved my levers and allowed me to ride back out of the bush after crashing on several occasions. Unless you are strictly on the street and intending only to keep the wind off your knuckles, I’d strongly recommend against guards which only attach at a single point.
 
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 04:54 PM
  #15  
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I had the open ended ones on an XL600 I had and liked them fine for their added protection to my hands. I ride with my perches fairly loose so if I go down they will rotate and maybe not break and it has worked for the most part. I've had 1 broken lever in the last 10-15 years. As far as tie downs go I use the old hook style and the rubber came off the ends a long time ago so my bars are marked up pretty good but it doesn't bother me.
 
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 09:14 PM
  #16  
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ok thanks for the input guys! think im gonna give them a try
 
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by rgoers
I used a Dremel tool with a carbide cutter tip to grind off the 3 tack-welds on each slug. Took me only a few minutes to remove each side... I don't know why folks make such a big deal over the slugs Kawi put in there. If they had run the bead all the way around, instead of placing 3 small tack welds, then I could see complaining about it... It took me WAY longer to modify the guards to allow clearance for the brake line and clutch cables, than it did to get those slugs out of there.

Note to self - if you do use a carbide cutter to grind the welds, wear gloves!!! Trust me... I was still picking microscopic metal slivers out of my hands days after I did the handguard installation.
I was wondering if the protaper bars had the plugs in them...I can't remember when I put them on and now the grips cover the ends
 
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:41 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by seth6025
I was wondering if the protaper bars had the plugs in them...I can't remember when I put them on and now the grips cover the ends
Sorry - must have mis-read your earlier post. I was thinking you had the Kawi stock bars.

I don't know if anyone else puts the slugs in there. Seems like it would make sense to prevent the bar from getting crushed in a crash.
 
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 01:04 AM
  #19  
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The plugs are there to dampen vibrations. Most street bikes come with bar end weights externally mounted. Open ended hand guards are for people who ride like whispering eyes.
 
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 2veedubs
The plugs are there to dampen vibrations. Most street bikes come with bar end weights externally mounted. Open ended hand guards are for people who ride like whispering eyes.
whats that suppose to mean
 

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