Oil "pan" repair for this bike?

Old Jul 31, 2015 | 02:27 PM
  #1  
Zeno's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 97
From: Waco, TX
Unhappy Oil "pan" repair for this bike?

My crankcase is cracked where the oil drain bolt goes in (it was overtorqued after a leaky helicoil repair).

Since it's not a proper oil pan, it's not easily pulled out/replaced.
I'd have to replace entire crank case I believe (correct me if I'm wrong).

And unfortunately, buying an entire crank case is pretty expensive.

Still not sure exactly what it looks like on the inside - can't "read" the parts diagram well enough to determine which piece oil drain is in, or if it consists of multiple pieces.

When I google this issue, the consensus seems to be that best permanent solution is to replace the part, or get a welder to weld it.

Would someone even weld this with it still being attached to motorcycle?
What type of shop should I try? Machine shop? I've called a few businesses around here and unfortunately their numbers are disconnected, or they do not do any welding work (like the local Kawi dealer)

The cheap-o solution would be to sand and prep it really well and JB-Weld it, but I would worry about it not being a permanent or safe enough fix.

EDIT - Anyone tried alumiweld + propane torch? That seems like something I could figure out how to do.
http://www.alumiweld.com/
 

Last edited by Zeno; Jul 31, 2015 at 02:45 PM.
Old Jul 31, 2015 | 03:05 PM
  #2  
Werloc's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 539
From: Central, NJ
1st Gear Member
Default

Having it welded will require it being taken apart anyway. Not just engine off the bike, but cases split, cleaned, and dried of all oil. Then the cost of the repair. That being said, your better off just getting new or used cases. Keep in mind, a repair like this may hurt your resale value down the road, if that matters to you. So even in the end, you'll be loosing the same. Of course, this is my opinion being in the motorcycle industry for 30+ years.

Anyother option, depending on how bad it is, epoxy like PC-7, etc., my work. But, to do it right so it holds, your still looking at splitting cases, cleaning and drying of oil. Another option is, buying a used tranny, and parting yours out and selling what you can to recoop some funds.
 
Old Jul 31, 2015 | 03:33 PM
  #3  
durielk's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,728
From: Cottonwood, AZ USA
1st Gear Member
Default

Why couldn't you just drill it out larger and put a plumbing plug in it?
It would be a lot easier if it works than splitting the cases.
Other option would be just to seal it up the best way you can, then just syphon the oil out the fill hole when you change the oil. Not the best, but it would work.
 
Old Jul 31, 2015 | 03:52 PM
  #4  
Zeno's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 97
From: Waco, TX
Default

Originally Posted by Werloc
Having it welded will require it being taken apart anyway. Not just engine off the bike, but cases split, cleaned, and dried of all oil. Then the cost of the repair. That being said, your better off just getting new or used cases. Keep in mind, a repair like this may hurt your resale value down the road, if that matters to you. So even in the end, you'll be loosing the same. Of course, this is my opinion being in the motorcycle industry for 30+ years.

Another option, depending on how bad it is, epoxy like PC-7, etc., my work. But, to do it right so it holds, your still looking at splitting cases, cleaning and drying of oil. Another option is, buying a used tranny, and parting yours out and selling what you can to recoop some funds.
New ones are $500

I've been looking for used one but no luck so far.

Haven't heard or read the PC-7 recommendation before. Do you think that would be better than alumiweld rods or JB Weld?


Originally Posted by durielk
Why couldn't you just drill it out larger and put a plumbing plug in it?
It would be a lot easier if it works than splitting the cases.
Other option would be just to seal it up the best way you can, then just syphon the oil out the fill hole when you change the oil. Not the best, but it would work.
You actually don't have a ton of spare material to keep drilling out larger. I already did drill out/tap a slightly bigger hole to install the helicoil.
... and crack is longer than that area anyway.
 
Old Jul 31, 2015 | 04:13 PM
  #5  
Werloc's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 539
From: Central, NJ
1st Gear Member
Default

PC-7 holds up to gas and oil, not sure about JB Weld. I've used it a few times on cases, but very small cracks and holes. Never tried JB myself, so can't compare.
 
Old Jul 31, 2015 | 05:48 PM
  #6  
pwjm's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 283
From: B.C. Canada 2000' ASL
Default

From my experience in other metals (not sure about the cases on these bikes), cracks tend to continue growing regardless of how you seal them up.

Usually you need to drill our the ends of the crack to prevent it from spreading.

I personally wouldn't risk the wasted time of trying to repair this with epoxy or JB. If it starts puking oil on the road or trail, you're going to have bigger, more expensive problems than a leaky crank case.
 
Old Jul 31, 2015 | 07:25 PM
  #7  
Werloc's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 539
From: Central, NJ
1st Gear Member
Default

I agree. I did say it's an option, but not the right way or the way I'd do it.
 
Old Aug 1, 2015 | 07:59 AM
  #8  
griffo1962's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 145
From: GC, Qld, Australia
1st Gear Member
Default

go and check out some of the threads over on klr650.net...... this is a real common problem on the KLR...
 
Old Aug 1, 2015 | 03:53 PM
  #9  
TNC's Avatar
TNC
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,050
From: Abilene, TX
1st Gear Member
Default

I've been riding with guys who've peeled their drain plugs right off the cases during a ride and have punched holes in side cases. I was amazed at how well JB Weld...and there are different formulas...allowed them to finish the ride...and the trip sometimes. However, that fix isn't permanent. Most of our aluminum motorcycle cases are not like a thick sheet of high quality aluminum that lends itself to welding or other "fixes". They are cast and somewhat porous at the molecular level. Epoxy, glue, and composite fixes will eventually let go in most all cases. If you have a true "crack" down there, it's likely to get worse. The aluminum case is a stress member in a steel frame. Flex and vibration is always occurring.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
preload
KLX 250S
12
Mar 17, 2014 09:53 PM
daren1093251
KLX 250S
18
Jan 21, 2014 05:24 PM
work
KLX 250S
7
Feb 6, 2011 02:06 PM
zzrotceh
ZZR 600
9
Feb 1, 2011 06:23 PM
davehayward1
General Tech
1
Sep 20, 2010 07:28 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:21 AM.