I remember that topic.

Recently, I switched from Royal Purple MaxCycle 10w-40 to Mobil V-Twin 20W-50. Due to the lack of good full sythentic oils in my area. And the Mobil V-Twin is sold right in the store I work in for $8.59 a quart.

Just a few tips. The Oil filter nutsare a8mm, and the oil drain plug is a 14mm. A Fram Oil Filter would be a CH6015. And it takes 1.5qts to fill it up. 10w-40 is perfered for most climate, but you can use a range from 10w-30 to 20w-50. Depends on the temperature of the climate. Also suggest to use a motorcycle oil designed for a wet-clutch use.

Hope it helps

 

I use Repsol 4T Racing Synthetic; it is one of the few oils I could find that had the API "SJ" certification that Kawasaki requires.
But it costs about $12 per liter.

It's cooling off here so I am using 5W40 now as opposed to 10W40.

 

It clearly states in the manual to have the bike straight up while draining the oil. I lean it back & forth afterwards and a little more oil comes out. Did you have any trouble with the oill filter spring? I'm surprised you didn't mention it at all.

 

I didn't change the oil filter.... I'll have to get one...

I'll have to have a look over the bike again.....

 

I use 10W-40 Pennzoil.Oil seems to be a big debate. But for me never had a problem runs great and shifts fine. You may want to check this out http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

 

I had been running Mobil 5000 10-40 regular oil for the first 6500 miles. This last oil change I grabbed Valvoline traditional 10-40 and found that it shifts smoother than the Mobil. I looked specifically for an oil that didn't have any friction modifiers.

 

im using bel ray regular 10w 40... and it shifts great, cept when the oil needs changed... but since i started using that.. no shifting problems....

 

That article is pretty good, I came across it on the net once or twice in the past, it is however almost 14 years old and not scientific at all although I don’t dispute any of their findings it is odd that they failed to mention one of the biggest concerns that most motorcyclists relate to when the talk of using an automotive oil in their bikes and that is the friction modifiers found in automotive oils.

Many believe that friction modifiers will harm your wet-clutch’s and many say that is hog-wash, I personally use regular auto oil while breaking-in my bikes due to the fact that I change it very often during the first 1,000 miles and it would be cost prohibitive to use a high dollar oil for this but after 1,000 miles I switch to a high quality motorcycle specific full synthetic oil.

I have never experienced an oil relate clutch problem (nor have any of the riders I know) from using inexpensive dino auto oils such as Pennsoil or Valvoline.

 

I used what Kawasaki offers as to not give them an excuse to void any warranty, then the dealer told me that after a period of time/miles I could run whatever I wanted.

Here is what I ran for 3,000 miles.


This is what I have been running for the last 3500

 

Holy sh$t bel ray is some expensive oil. Just looked it up. Do you feelit make that much difference?