Where is the oil drain nut on the KLX 250?? Is it the one that is actually underneath the engine on the left side?

Does it need to be torque'd to specific rating when I tighten it ( not that I'll probably bother torqueing this nut up but at least this way I know what sins I'm doing..)

 

yes.... i believe there is a hole in the skid plate to access it, i have a different skid plate.... i have never torqued it but im sure there are torque numbers for it... i have been changing oil on things for years so i know how tight to make it....

hahah, when i worked at an oil change shop the kid who pulled the plug pulled the wrong one and drained the front differential on a subaru ( i think, something all wheel drive?!) then we put oil in it and it was waaay too full. lol.. lesson lerned... haha..... good times..... anyone know what happens when you dont put the rear differential check plug back in? lol

 

Yes it's underneath the left side. Torque is11FT. LBs.

 

Do you lean your bike over to the drain plug side and let it drain, or do you keep it straight and let it drain. I've let it drain on it's kick stand, so I'm just wondering should I put it on the bike stand and see if any more comes out?

I figure since the drain plug is on the left having the bike lean a little to the left will help drain it..... What are your thoughts....?

 

Leave it on its kick stand as you drain the oil.

 

Super sweet. That was an easy job to do.

Is there an oil filter on these bikes? It might sound like a silly question, but if I don't ask and I never change the filter and it clogs up and seizes everything then I'll feel really silly....

 

Yes, it is on the right side of the bike. If you have a owners manual it will help point it out better.

 

Make sure you don't over torque that drain plug, and make sure that you do torque it up enough!! My first issue I brought to these forums was finding a new drain plug I was too eager to go ride, and didn't torque it (or enough) and it fell out mid ride. Quite a mess, no damage though as far as I know. So if your stupid like me, get a cheap torque wrench (i got one for 20 bucks) that way you'll actually remember doing it, and doing it proper

 

Wow, you must be really insensitive or something (joking :P).

I've never used a torque wrench for ANY of the bolts i've done on the bike. I DO have one, but I ruined it when I tried to apply 80 ftlbs to the rear axle nut with it, and later realized "whoops, only goes up to 50 ft lbs". Not that I lost out much though, it was a 60+ year old wrench that my grandpa stole from the Navy back in the war (he used to check inventory for their storage stock. I've got a tonne of useful tools laying around that he ended up reporting as "missing")

But yeah, just make a mental note of how much muscle pressure you needed to use to undo the bolt, then when you're putting it back in, tighten it up, then losen it again. If the pressure required to losen it was about the same as you needed the first time around, then you know you've got it about right. Then just use the same pressure you used to tighten it to REtighten it, and you're good to go.

Never used a torque wrench on my oil drain bolt, oil filter bolts, tripple tree bolts, axle bolts (front AND rear), axle pinch bolts, and handlebar bolts, although I suppose I ought to get the last few I listed torqued up properly.

 

On the subject of changing oil, what's a good oil to use? I recall some discussion about not going to a synthetic until after some time on the engine. My main concern is getting a good oil that's suitable for the wet clutch, as most automotive oils may not be.