I put a iridium in many many miles ago.... I actually just put one on my KLR yesterday though, along with a PIAA headlight bulb.

 

I have run Iridiums in all my toys for many, many years. Started with my snowmobiles... and have used them ever since.

That was one of the first "mods" I did on my KLX. Since it's such a PITA to get the to the plug, I figured I would install a plug that will last the life of the bike.

 

how long have plugs lasted you? or, do you replace the plugs before finding out? i was told by a mechanic that it is a good idea to change the spark plugs at each valve check/adjustment....

this is what the spark plugs i got from the trash and ran the bike for 2,000 miles before it finally died....the tip and top looks normal, but i don't get what the black slime stuff is on the screw base (the area in focus more)..i was told to apply some engine oil to the thread before screwing it back on....

 

If you're running conventional plugs...non-precious metal like platinum, iridium, etc...that's not too bad a recommendation...though the plug might still be good during a valve check interval. The only real problem with conventional plugs is how long they last...or not. This will vary from engine to engine. Having a carb tends to be much harder on plugs than FI...generally. That black stuff on your plug is more likely fuel deposits rather than oil. Carbs just don't run as clean on a plug as FI. Basically 2 things kill a plug...outright fuel or oil fouling and erosion of the spark surface over time. Fuel and oil fouling will kill a conventional or precious metal plug either one. The more common death comes from erosion of the spark surface of the center electrode and ground strap electrode which increases the gap distance and/or changes the quality of the surface for the spark to jump. Precious metal plugs retain the firing surface quality and gap much longer because their materials are much tougher.

On treating threads on installation, antiseize is probably the better application, being careful not to slather the stuff onto the firing portion of the plug.

 

thanks tnc...spark plugs are cheap enough that i don't mind replacing every 8,000 miles for peace of mind...kind of sucked getting ready for work yesterday morning and not being able to start the moto....

 

Some of the new(ngk)plugs are nickle plated threads and don't require antisieze, they even say not to use it (even in alum heads). So being old school I put it on anyway. About 10k later I get a check engine light, scan code said # 2 cyl. I expect fouled plug but low and behold #2 backed out 1/2 way, the others needed a little tight.... I cleaned the antiseize off. LOL

Since emission's regulations plugs have really gotten a whole lot better than the old days.

 

That's weird. The crush washer should have retained the plug with no problem...antiseize or not. I love antiseize. I'm going to demand it on the hinges of my coffin when I die.

 

So you can get out easier when you turn into a Zombie or Vampire ??

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf


Seems some ham fists were over torquing with lube on the threads, breaking the plug body.

They do show using it on the black un plated threads.

 

I'm going to go with vampire. That deal with zombies where chuncks of your dead flesh kind of fall off occasionally is pretty gross. Plus, most vampire chicks are usually hot.

Rimbender, yeah you have to gauge your torquing methods carefully with antiseize on critical parts. One of the biggest, longest, mechanical discussions on the Thumpers section on ADV that I ever saw was over the use of antiseize. Lots of good info and wild speculation was in that post.