N1TC VS Stock and DJ needle teaser
#21
03-12-2016, 11:22 AM
my 2009 KLX 250S with a HMF slip-on K+N filter + no lid runs good but sputters at high RPM. exhaust can tip is black, 122 main jet, 38 slow jet + N1TC needle clip in the middle. from this + a good read from Duncan racing indicates a too large main jet + a needle that don't work well together. i believe i got recommendations from HMF site long ago. bike is new a used very little but enough to not cause issues, suggestions appreciated. retired now with more time to ride!!
- Slide bleed hole drilled 7/64"
- starter jet drilled .020"
- 40 pilot about 2.5 turns out
- N1TC second notch from top
- 125 main
- Dial-A-Jet fuel adder to compensate for lean spots.
- KDX220 snorkel
- MCM cam timing modification
- Stock exhaust
Only using a "seat of the pants" dyno, but it has worked well pulling strong in relatively deep sand (13/47) and also on the road pulling a tall gear at that time (15 /39).
Pretty much the same set up as my brother did with his earlier model 250, but no MCM timing alteration and running a KLX300 full exhaust.
Both seem to be working very well.
#22
03-12-2016, 01:22 PM
a coal black exhaust tip says very rich not lean. relocated the clip up one notch, i "may" have had the needle incorrectly installed, i should pay more attention to details when removing or installing. i think its right now from looking at vids + the service manual, riding soon will tell
#23
03-12-2016, 03:16 PM
Black exhaust does not necessarily indicate improper fueling. Choice of needle, needle clip position, lift port size, slide spring and (I think most importantly) riding style all contribute.
It seems that overfueling the midrange with the above components - even with a lean main jet - combined with lots of throttle snaps, can soot-up "stuff"..
Also, proper performance fueling will do this with "hooligan" riding styles..
It seems that overfueling the midrange with the above components - even with a lean main jet - combined with lots of throttle snaps, can soot-up "stuff"..
Also, proper performance fueling will do this with "hooligan" riding styles..
Last edited by Klxster; 03-12-2016 at 03:23 PM.
#24
03-12-2016, 11:10 PM
Also helps to know rough elevation. Thus the reason I point out being at 900 ft.
Moving the clip up one puts it in the second position dropping the needle down... leaner.
I will say you won't find the KLX to be any sort of "tractor" like a 650 might be, rather if you want it to move out you stay above 4000 rpm and better if above 5000. My 650 doesn't really pull strong until over 3500 rpm. Small motors want to sing.
Moving the clip up one puts it in the second position dropping the needle down... leaner.
I will say you won't find the KLX to be any sort of "tractor" like a 650 might be, rather if you want it to move out you stay above 4000 rpm and better if above 5000. My 650 doesn't really pull strong until over 3500 rpm. Small motors want to sing.
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