N1TC VS Stock and DJ needle teaser

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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 12:50 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by pwjm
You'll have to remove the throttle cable bracket though I'm sure.
It's not required, doesn't get much in the way but is a bit easier without it. Lately I've been leaving it on. [Add.:] I do remove the throttle cables but it may be easier to just remove the bracket and leave the cables in the bracket.
 

Last edited by neonarc; Jul 2, 2015 at 01:52 PM.
Old Jun 30, 2015 | 11:39 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by klx678
I have considered some sort of heavy plastic or metal water bottle, with a fitting in the cap for fuel feed, as a temp that could be temp attached (aka bungee) on the frame. I haven't been to WalMart or some place like that to see about it. Perhaps that is my errand today. I considered looking at some of the heavy water/soft drink bottles too. Make a temp tank to wire, bungee or velcro tie to the frame for short runs.

I figure some sort of fitting can be worked up in the cap to fit the fuel line, maybe an in-line petcock if I can find one cheap. Just haven't quite done it yet. I have to clean up the 650 from storage for the winter - rain and crap has kept it tucked away in the trailer until last week. I have to clean off the rust inhibitor and last year's dirt. Wife's gone for the week so I have time to dink around for the tank stuff and do some bike stuff... still rainy.
I tried a used tube-shaped lawn mower gas tank that was about 9" long and 3" dia that I had sent with some other stuff after getting it off eBay. The bike seemed to run worse-I think the cap's inner cork gasket wasn't flowing enough air through the cap's vents and it just seemed easier to use the Kaw tank in the end.
 
Old Jun 30, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #13  
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After digging and rooting around with a variety of searches, both on-line and wandering around in Advance Auto, WalMart, Hardware Depot (local real hardware store), and even looking around Krogers Grocery, I finally found the stuff. I am making a test tank with the following:
  • Pocket bike fuel tank w/cap - $13.25 from Amazon
  • 1/4" inlet/outlet in-line fuel petcock - $6.99 from Advance Auto
  • 3 ft of 1/4" clear fuel line - 34¢/foot from Hardware Depot

I figure it's worth the twenty-five bucks and making it, with any luck I won't need it... but not likely. Plus I've needed something like this when balancing carbs on other bikes. Now I'll have it hanging around.
 

Last edited by klx678; Jun 30, 2015 at 12:47 PM.
Old Jun 30, 2015 | 01:25 PM
  #14  
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To change the needle or main jet, you don't have to remove either the carb or the tank. The needle can be done from the top, with the bolts out of the tank and lifted up at the back, and the main jet can be done with the throttle cable bracket disconnected, carb loosened, and turned so you can pull the float bowl.
 
Old Jul 1, 2015 | 03:21 AM
  #15  
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Yeah, but with a test tank there's no problem with anything. Hook it on the cross bar, turn on the gas and go. Besides I can use it on the other bikes too. I need to synch the carbs on the Zephyr after putting in a new diaphragm on the #1 cylinder carb.
 
Old Jul 1, 2015 | 12:40 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by zomby woof
To change the needle or main jet, you don't have to remove either the carb or the tank. The needle can be done from the top, with the bolts out of the tank and lifted up at the back, and the main jet can be done with the throttle cable bracket disconnected, carb loosened, and turned so you can pull the float bowl.
I saw this before and tried to do it but failed. Couldn't get the bowl screws out because I couldn't fit a screwdriver in there. Did you use a small screw driver or what's the trick?
 
Old Jul 2, 2015 | 12:02 AM
  #17  
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Remove the cable bracket screw. You can leave the cables in throttle shaft. Spin the carb in the boots so the bowl is on the exhaust side. You can then get to the screws.
 

Last edited by s10gto; Jul 2, 2015 at 12:05 AM.
Old Jul 2, 2015 | 01:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by s10gto
Remove the cable bracket screw. You can leave the cables in throttle shaft. Spin the carb in the boots so the bowl is on the exhaust side. You can then get to the screws.
got it. i was trying with the bowl to the other side, no wonder. thanks
 
Old Mar 11, 2016 | 06:26 PM
  #19  
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my 2009 KLX 250S with a HMF slip-on K+N filter + no lid runs good but sputters at high RPM. exhaust can tip is black, 122 main jet, 38 slow jet + N1TC needle clip in the middle. from this + a good read from Duncan racing indicates a too large main jet + a needle that don't work well together. i believe i got recommendations from HMF site long ago. bike is new a used very little but enough to not cause issues, suggestions appreciated. retired now with more time to ride!!
 
Old Mar 12, 2016 | 01:04 AM
  #20  
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From my experience if you are running lidless you are probably very lean. I am currently running a DGR, no snorkle, K138, N1TC-2, and my bike runs strong from about 5.5K to 9K.
 



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