So I got the N1TC Kawasaki needle. Came with no circlip. I have a bunch of carbs so I robbed a circlip from an old carb.

There is a bunch of play up and down from the clip to the white nylon retainer. Are you guys using tiny washers to take up that play?

Thanks!

 

Have you got the collar? pn 92143
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts...42001#sch74625

Ride on
Brewster

 

Crud!!!!

Looks like I will have to order one up. PN 92143-1667

Was planning on riding her tomorrow for the first time after all these mods. darn it.

Maybe put the stock needle in but I want it to be right from the "get-go"

Just looking at how long the stock needle is, and how far it goes into the "jet needle" (needle jet?) its going to be really lean in the mid range.

Thanks Brewster (again) for the info

 

2nd slot from top is normal for most from sea level to around 4000 ft. I'm at 900-1000 ft and running second slot.

For future reference put at least your state or city/state in general in your settings for a location so people have a bit of an idea where you're situated. It helps.

 

Been meaning to do that. Your right, on every forum I go to I always first glance at the members location and post count. Might even add my fleet of old Hondas in too just to prove how obsessed I am over these 2 wheel machines! Lol

 

I might add that if you are running lidless - with a K152 main jet - you must use keep the clip on the top notch (as you have it in your picture) with any collars/washers placed on top of the clip. The N1TC is quite short for lidless running and must be kept as long as possible. Otherwise, midrange overfueling will occur with lidless running.



As for your ride you don't want to miss: If running lidless, I'm going to guess the stock needle with a K158 or K160 main jet may work well enough to get you through the ride.

 

if running lidless KLXter has done a lot with the CV with A/F meter measurements. My 2nd groove note is from the past history using the Kiehin parts as documented by a number of riders here and in other forums, not using A/F meters, but jetting old school brass swapping and moving. I am also in a cooler zone running at 1000-2000 ft in general.

 

60 degrees outside air temp (OAT)
AIR BOX: no snork/lid installed, stock airfilter litely oiled, screen in
CARB. Pilot 40. FS 2.0 turns out. N1TC Needle #2 slot. 145K Main
MCM mod
Stock header with FMF Power Core 4 Slip on

Starts cold quickly, can take the choke off within 10 seconds.
Around 5K its running like its on choke, but can wick the throttle and it cleans out.
WOT it winds out clean.

So I was going to put the N1TC needle on #1 slot but from my experience a move of only 1 on the needle would not be enough. Probably should have just taken the lid off. But I put the stock needle in and shimmed it with two 3mm washers (.110mm) which is about the equiv of 1.5 grooves. Solved about 50% of the midrange burble but still rich in that 5.5K range. Plug still showing too rich. The Picture was after 15 mins with the First Settings.

Not going to spend a crap load of time dialing it in because I live in a tiny town and the FMF has to go. I have a stock slipon coming. Gunna hurt the performance but got to do it.

Once I get the stock muff I think I am going to go to a #135K main, maybe 130K, stock needle shimmed .110mm and #40 with 2.0 turns.

I am not liking either of these needles right now so might do the DJ kit. hell its only $55 on amazon right now.

I have the manual t-chain adjuster and I have been playing with that too. I like the fact I can back it off 1/6 turn and I can hear the chain and know I am not putting a bunch of pressure on the cam drive system.

 

Definitely listen to KLXter if you do the DynoJet brass. He's got that dialed.

 

There is precedent for the possibility that some "northern" CVK32's (on the KLX250S) will just not run larger jets.

If you are sure your slide spring is stock - uncut, therefore, stock length, and your slide lift port is undrilled, you should pop in a K138 main jet for a retest.