Brewster, there are obviously some great projects scattered all over with other forks mounted on all manner of other bikes, even KLR650's and such, but on the KLX this kind of strikes me in the same vein as doing head work, cams, big carb, and all the other potential mods that one "can" do on a KLX. At that point it perhaps seems more logical to move on to a more serious dirt bike. The niche that the KLX and even the WR250R fit is a pretty neat slot. If I wanted a plated race bike I think I would have gone to a KTM. The KLX is a neat compromise.

On the KX fork for the KLX, of course I understand the stiffer fork and probably better damping right off the bat. However, I'm not clear on your "much cheaper" comment, unless I missed its application. Full retail on the Gold Valve kit for the KLX is about $165. Also most riders need new fork springs. On the KX fork, is there a guarantee that the damping and fork springs are going to be suited to the KLX and every rider? With the modded KLX fork you get some very good personalization with springs and new valving. I wouldn't be surprised if I found the need to respring and revalve a KX fork if I installed one on my KLX. On the stiffness issue of the two forks, I go back to that issue of the wrong bike for the job type of deal...but...I do not demean folks who pursue that for their personal preference and enjoyment. A KLR650 or a KLX with a KX fork mounted is a step up in performance and functon. For me the revalve and respring are more than adequate and don't bring any other headaches to the party.

 

I was referring to swapping in the Ohlin forks.

I've got a KLX300.
I've done the proper springs and Gold Valves in the stock forks. This was a major improvement over the stock setup.
I got a set of KX forks for around $100. I used the springs I bought for the KLX forks and only additional cost was for new seals in the KX forks. This was another step up in handling. An additional benefit of the KX forks is that you can access the rebound shim stacks.......can't do that with the KLX forks. If you don't like the way the valving is set up in the KX forks, all you need to do is change the shim stacks......no need to install GoldValves.

Handling is a personal choice. For my weight, riding style, and terrain, the KX forks work the best for me. I also reshimmed the shock.

Ride on
Brewster

 

Oh yeah...a KLX250 with an Ohlins fork. Is that kind of like an oxymoron?...LOL! I would definitely agree that the KX fork is a more logical choice for an alternative fork. That $100 price on the KX forks sounds pretty good. Yeah, that lack of access to the KLX's fork's rebound stack is a negative. My rebound setup seems pretty decent, but I'd have to change oil viscosity to make any changes to it...then that would probably require a compresson shim tweak. Still like you noticed, the Gold Valve setup is major improvement. I did my shock also, and of course it provides access and revalving for both the rebound and compression circuits...big improvement there too.

My '06 KLX is more like your 300 than the '09 and later models. I wonder if the application of a KX fork would be suitable on the shorter travel models?

 

I do not think for 2009 models to be successful installing a KX fork. The bike would be unconfigured: Behind are 230mm to 300mm travel in front of the KX. Would have to make changes to the rear of the bike: rods ...

 

Even when installing the KX forks on the KLX300, the use of the shorter KLX springs and spacers are needed. The same can be accomplished for the 2009 model to keep the stock geometry.

Ride on
Brewster

 

Ohlins on my KLX? Naaa. I have $168 and 1.5 hours invested. More my speed and more in the spirit of the bike. If needed I can pull the valves out and re adjust. I have no idea right now if it needs it.

This thing is a hoot to drive. I don't want to get too serious about it.

The 351 kit not a big deal. The same for the fork valves, they were needed for the bike. The big carb? Jury is still out on if it was worth the three hundred bucks I have in it. Another three hundred for a loud exhaust? No way.

David

 

Here's the valve tool my friend made. It's a 1" piece of conduit.

 

Tool copied. I went for a ride today. MUCH better than stock valves.

First I had the adjusters turned all the way out and went for a ride of about 15 miles. It was much better than stock. I did run over some RR tracks with no issues. It was 40*F, the warmest day we have seen in a long time. 60 mph bumps were smooth and the rear seemed stiffer than the front for the first time ever. Then this after noon, I turned the screws all the way in and went for a ride. It jarred me a little on the bigger bumps. I put the adjusters at 11 clicks which is 1/2 way. Bike rode great. 45 mph bumps were "uneventful" Road was smooth as I think it would get for a 300 lb bike.


I am extremely happy.

A little fine tuning is all that is left, but this is more for what I am doing that day.

David

 

Once the sun comes out tomorrow morning and I get clean pavement all the way to the main highway through town, I'm going to go do some WOT testing. She sounds real nice with the bigger bore, power bomb, and half-way properly tuned TM33. It's a lot different than it did last October when it went into the living room. I warmed it up 2 days in a row and this morning I changed the oil with the cheapest 10-40 Wal Mart had to offer and a new filter. We have some tracks going across the highway and I'll see what the new valving and springs do now.

 

I did 60 miles today on back and the bumpy est roads I could find. The bike rides great. I started with the rebound in the back at 4, the comparession at 12 and forks set at 11 clicks. It rode well, the rear was stiffer, so I opened the rear rebound 3 more clicks.,
The front and rear feel the same. Bike handles better when its balanced front and rear.

Worth the $ Yup
Worth my time Yup
Recomend? YES

It rode great and didn't beat me up. Once when I was not expecting it, my right foot was dragging in a corner.




I had to pile on the brakes and make a 60 mph stop. It dove pretty good. There was about 1" of travel left according to the zip tie. No "Click" like last time when it hit bottom.

Rides and handles Excellent

David