Mod day - Airbox, carb, smog, crank case breather, carb 'T', and muffler completed
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 19
From: Santa Paula, CA
I am in the process of removing the smog stuff off of my 50 state 09 KLX250S and I am not sure what this is or if I routed the lines right. I couldn't find any pictures of it in this thread. The line on top comes from the gas tank and I blocked the other line (it went to the smog canister stuff) and the line on the bottom goes to the carb. I will post a pic of the carb too.
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 19
From: Santa Paula, CA
Well, I wasn't smart enough to take a picture before reinstalling the carb. This is where the T is and you can see the line I blocked and the line coming from the mysterious canister comes in on the other side of the T.
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 19
From: Santa Paula, CA
So, can I remove the separator pictured 2 posts above (post 61)? I think the gas tank overflow connects to this since gas came out when I had the tank off and tilted it too much. It's connected to my carb and I would like to remove it from the carb if possible. Plug it at the gas tank? Route the hose down to the bottom of bike to drain?
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 315
From: Bakersfield, CA
So, can I remove the separator pictured 2 posts above (post 61)? I think the gas tank overflow connects to this since gas came out when I had the tank off and tilted it too much. It's connected to my carb and I would like to remove it from the carb if possible. Plug it at the gas tank? Route the hose down to the bottom of bike to drain?
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 315
From: Bakersfield, CA
Ok had a chance to look @ it.
Front to rear on the tank. (on the bottom of tank the lines are identified by dots of color) Blue is a vent line that can be ran to the vent lines off the carb with a "T" or by itself. (I just used the hose that does a 180 degree bend that was for the smog junk, came off the red port. Mine does'nt go in the dirt so contamination is not an issue but I may still put a filter on it) I capped the red line, this is a vapor return to the tank that was connected to the small smog apperatus that was mounted near it, it will spill fuel so I capped it. I do not sugest running it to the carb vent lines because it will waste fuel periodically. Next is the uncolored long fuel filler spill over flow tube that needs to stay routed with the carb vent lines. Yellow goes to the #1 on the pet **** and white goes to the @2 on the pet **** and the out is to the carb supply.
Hope this helps.
Front to rear on the tank. (on the bottom of tank the lines are identified by dots of color) Blue is a vent line that can be ran to the vent lines off the carb with a "T" or by itself. (I just used the hose that does a 180 degree bend that was for the smog junk, came off the red port. Mine does'nt go in the dirt so contamination is not an issue but I may still put a filter on it) I capped the red line, this is a vapor return to the tank that was connected to the small smog apperatus that was mounted near it, it will spill fuel so I capped it. I do not sugest running it to the carb vent lines because it will waste fuel periodically. Next is the uncolored long fuel filler spill over flow tube that needs to stay routed with the carb vent lines. Yellow goes to the #1 on the pet **** and white goes to the @2 on the pet **** and the out is to the carb supply.
Hope this helps.
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 21
slip on/full
Im gladfolksfound these pics and the writeup useful, hopefully it will help make the mod process a bit easier. I used a TON of ideas and sites that others posted in this site and it made my "shopping list" and the work pretty straight forward!!
All up it took about 6 hours, so not too bad. I had read so much about what a bitch it is to get to the carb and other stuff so when my quiet core didnt come, and everything else was, I decided to do the marithon session and take the thing apart once. In hindsight (or when I have to do it again for my sons bike... ) I would again do it all in one session. I think the vast majority of the time was spent taking apart and putting back together the bike to get access to the carb, lines, smog stuff, crank case breather etc...
The air screw is "T handle" mixture screw from KoubaLink
If you use this site:
"T"-Handle FuelscrewAir/Fuelscrews
Just order the one for the KLX250 ( I don't think they have part numbers) Theowner is GREAT to work with and its a breeze to get. (yeah, there was NO WAY i was going to have to take all that appart for small adjustments to the fuel screw!!----SCREW THAT!!!)
I bought the Crankcase air filter at an Autozone store. You can also order them at:
K&N Crankcase Vent Filters
Either way you will have to buy an adaptor that will fit the 5/8th inner diameter hose and also the 1/2 - 3/8ths inch opening on the filter. I ended up using a simple brass hose connector from Lowes that had a 3/8th inch barbed end on one side (that went into the filter) and a 5/8ths threaded hose coupling on the other side. I just threaded that bad boy into the 5/8th inch hose and put on a circular clamp!!
All up it took about 6 hours, so not too bad. I had read so much about what a bitch it is to get to the carb and other stuff so when my quiet core didnt come, and everything else was, I decided to do the marithon session and take the thing apart once. In hindsight (or when I have to do it again for my sons bike... ) I would again do it all in one session. I think the vast majority of the time was spent taking apart and putting back together the bike to get access to the carb, lines, smog stuff, crank case breather etc...
The air screw is "T handle" mixture screw from KoubaLink
If you use this site:
"T"-Handle FuelscrewAir/Fuelscrews
Just order the one for the KLX250 ( I don't think they have part numbers) Theowner is GREAT to work with and its a breeze to get. (yeah, there was NO WAY i was going to have to take all that appart for small adjustments to the fuel screw!!----SCREW THAT!!!)
I bought the Crankcase air filter at an Autozone store. You can also order them at:
K&N Crankcase Vent Filters
Either way you will have to buy an adaptor that will fit the 5/8th inner diameter hose and also the 1/2 - 3/8ths inch opening on the filter. I ended up using a simple brass hose connector from Lowes that had a 3/8th inch barbed end on one side (that went into the filter) and a 5/8ths threaded hose coupling on the other side. I just threaded that bad boy into the 5/8th inch hose and put on a circular clamp!!
Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 51
From: Detroit, MI
1st Gear Member
Ok, I know this thread this old, but I'm having a lot of trouble finding the right answers. I've been looking through forums for a few hours.
In short, I'm wondering if plugging the line that goes from the kca unit to the carb has any adverse affects?
I thought that the line operated the carbs slide. The threads I've looked at, looks like everyone is just capping off that plug when they remove the smog system.
I basically replaced the whole airbox with a pod filter. I'm worried about not hooking up the two lines that were plugged into the airbox. It's possible for me to fab up a place where I can still use a pod filter and use the two lines that came out of the airbox, it's also possible for me to plug the lines that came off the airbox and just use the pod filter. I know this is redundant, but, I'm ok with plugging the crank case vent, but worried about plugging the line that runs from the airbox to the kca unit then from the kca unit to the top of the carb because I thought it operated the carbs slide.
Is it ok for me to plug this and have the carb still function properly ?????
Thanks so much!!!!
In short, I'm wondering if plugging the line that goes from the kca unit to the carb has any adverse affects?
I thought that the line operated the carbs slide. The threads I've looked at, looks like everyone is just capping off that plug when they remove the smog system.
I basically replaced the whole airbox with a pod filter. I'm worried about not hooking up the two lines that were plugged into the airbox. It's possible for me to fab up a place where I can still use a pod filter and use the two lines that came out of the airbox, it's also possible for me to plug the lines that came off the airbox and just use the pod filter. I know this is redundant, but, I'm ok with plugging the crank case vent, but worried about plugging the line that runs from the airbox to the kca unit then from the kca unit to the top of the carb because I thought it operated the carbs slide.
Is it ok for me to plug this and have the carb still function properly ?????
Thanks so much!!!!
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,647
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
Capping off the vacuum fitting will not hurt anything. Of course there is no gain in power removing the smog stuff either. The vacuum the system takes is nothing to performance, such small volume in that tube. The weight savings is negligible too.
There may be some claims about cooler exhaust temps too, but the cooling of the exhaust will slow exhaust gas velocity too, cutting flow probably a miniscule amount. That is why performance builders use either exhaust wrap or ceramic coating (ie, Jet Hot coating) of headers. Keep exhaust flow velocity up.
Fact is there is no performance based reason to remove the stuff.
It really is more about reducing clutter under the tank - which is fine... as long as one understands that is the only real benefit to be had.
Don't mistake my comments to be telling anyone not to do the work. I'm just stating the real value of it. Do it if you want, little lost/little gained - other than the clutter it is a wash
I was going to do it on my 09, but didn't have the stuff handy when I did my carb and valves so I stuck the stuff back on, problem solved.
The key information of value for performance is the carb/intake work.
There may be some claims about cooler exhaust temps too, but the cooling of the exhaust will slow exhaust gas velocity too, cutting flow probably a miniscule amount. That is why performance builders use either exhaust wrap or ceramic coating (ie, Jet Hot coating) of headers. Keep exhaust flow velocity up.
Fact is there is no performance based reason to remove the stuff.
It really is more about reducing clutter under the tank - which is fine... as long as one understands that is the only real benefit to be had.
Don't mistake my comments to be telling anyone not to do the work. I'm just stating the real value of it. Do it if you want, little lost/little gained - other than the clutter it is a wash
I was going to do it on my 09, but didn't have the stuff handy when I did my carb and valves so I stuck the stuff back on, problem solved.
The key information of value for performance is the carb/intake work.
