Hi!

I've just installed the tensioner, but haven't done fine tuning. I would like to hear other's experiences about it, whether you had to tighten or loosen the tensioner at fine tuning compared to the initial setup. And how much?

 

I have yet to do any adjustment on my KLX 250 since I installed the tensioner using the cold set. I had used them in my KLX 650 and Zephyr 550 and used what I learned there when writing the instructions for the tensioners. I used the fine tuning adjustment on the 650 when it had light ticking, because it was open and easy to do - not blocked in by the exhaust like the 250. Haven't had to do the 250.

Now the question "how much". There is no magic number and since the goal is virtually zero tension there is no common torque wrench that will accurately read that low - you know, none read as low as single digit inch-lb. It is just tightening up by finger pressure (low torque) until tight, then backing off around 1/8-1/4 turn to allow for thermal expansion. It isn't really magic and there a bit of range for adjustment. If there was some way to actually test the adjustment it would be simple, but there isn't. The instruction gives enough zone for functional adjustment. I believe it also says loose is better than tight. One full turn of the adjuster bolt is 0.050" (1.25mm to be exact). If you adjust within a half turn it is around 0.010" When your old tensioner was going bad it was around 0.250-0.375" Big difference.

If you want to do so you can "creep up" on adjustment. If you have a rattle when warm and don't want to roast your fingers, let the bike cool, then turn the adjuster bolt in 1/4 turn. If there is noise when warmed up, repeat. The key point will be you should only have to do this once or twice, not five times. That and make sure the noise you are hearing is the cam drive, not the valves or the clutch.

I hope this helps. Don't overthink the process. The problems usually are from overthinking the process. You are turning a bolt in against the slider to take the slack out of a chain, not to set some specific tension on it. Pretty simple.

 

 

I hear absolutely no rattle at idle neither cold or warm. When riding the engine has a little bit different sound at around 5000 rpm, can’t surely say if it’s light rattling or something other. The stock exhaust’s whistling noise is also the loudest and most irritating at around 5000 rpm, which makes it difficult to identify the sounds coming from the engine. Apart from these the engine sounds normal I think, but I don’t really trust my ears

 

If it is the tensioner it will get louder and definitely more noticeable. It isn't an instant catastrophic failure, rather it is progressive. You would have time to get another tensioner without concern. You just don't want to totally ignore it, if the tensioner allows too much slack in the chain that is when it could jump a tooth or two at the crank and that is when things break. Right now you may either have no problem or may be in the early stages of the tensioner going bad. Don't let it freak you out. Just occasionally intentionally listen carefully to the sound, like once a week. But really you will know when it is rattling enough to warrant replacement and have time to do so.

So right now, no problem. Enjoy the ride.

 

I’ve just installed the manual tensioner, don’t want to get an other one

If there’s no rattle at idle it means I set it up correctly, right?

And also I forgot to put LocTite on the screws, (the instructions I got with the tensioner didn’t include) should I disassemble the tensioner or should I just leave it that way?

 

First, thank you.

Second, if you did it finger tight per the instructions you're good to go.

Third, I don't have LocTite on mine either. If they're tight enough that's good. Just for a while check every now and again that they aren't coming loose, it makes a mess with oil that collects inside comes out...

 

A question was asked about the jam nut against the allen nut used to hold the adjuster in position while locking the adjustment. Here is the information on the set up:

The jam nut is to remain against the allen nut. it is only there to keep the allen nut tight when using it to hold the adjuster bolt while tightening down the locking nut.. Running it down against the jam nut does absolutely nothing to hold the adjustment.


What holds the adjustment is when the locking nut is tightened down against the body.You are locking the adjuster bolt in position to the body.Just make sure the locking nut is good and tight against the body.

 

Good to know, my MCCT is sitting on a shelf as I build the motivation to install it. Unlike the ACCT in my 95 Honda Magna, where there is only a helical torsion spring holding the chain follower against the slack side of the chain. One morning, on the commute to work, at 70 mph, the spring broke and an unholy racket ensued. At first I thought the sound was from a nearby car, but soon realized it was me! Limped it to work and came back with a trailer and fixed the bike up for a few more miles. Miss that bike. Wish Honda would make a new one, but don't see that happening. If they had a VF800CD I might have gotten it instead of my Triumph.

 

Ok, so I have read some review that say only do the inlet and not the exhaust. Has anyone tried just the inlet and then both the inlet and exhaust that can share the differences they noticed?