Manual cam tensioner install
Thanks to KLX678 for the link.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...jKZ8MmanM/edit |
Posting the instruction will make it permanent in the forum, should my google drive go down.
KLX 250/300 Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Here it goes: Installing the new manual cam chain tensioner:
On the KLX and similar singles or similar multis with cam drive on the side. Install tensioner as shown (old nut, not allen type now used). https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/RR...v7JfvwPpy9NGEw Rotate the crank shaft counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet or breaker bar.https://docs.google.com/drawings/u/0...UHHBBjKZ8MmanM This shows Thad’s adjustment method to get good feel. Warm up the bike and readjust per instructions. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/vm...PaCTqwCwHUSabg Then snug up the lock nut. This shows the special set up Thad used. The allen wrench may clear depending on head pipe.size. Here is the special set up Thad had set up to make the hot engine adjustment. The aftermarket exhaust makes it quite hot to do. Note the cut off 6mm ball end and ¼ drive extension and 6mm socket.https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/F9...HrU7Kp_WZmP41w https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Px...I39uv1twYUsM1A Here’s a handy “tool” to remove the alternator plug… Innovative, huh. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/QD...NlMNrJJ1Mt0EEg While adjusting the tenisioner bolt in. by hand. Turn the crank several revolutions while doing this to get most all the play out. : https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/EV...sAtiB7UMY-OjnQ |
One more thing that should have some permanence. The condensed MCM instructions.
Marcelino Cam Timing Mod. For KLX250 Condensed Version Eliminating all the background to get to the basics. The explanation of the Marcelino Cam Timing Modification is interesting and informative as to how he arrived at the modification. It does clutter up the actual How-To for the modification. After fighting with it reading several times, when I actually did the work it became crystal clear and very simple… well the idea was simple, getting the proper tooth position on the cam sprockets proved to be a bit confounding at times. I would move it the wrong way or one too many teeth, but still once I realized how it would figuratively look it all became quite elementary. Here it is: After disassembling everything down to get to the cams I recommend you first check clearance to make sure your valve clearance is within spec and I recommend you shim to the middle. As a friend/mechanic once commented, “A noisy valve is a happy valve.” The implication being if your valves are too tight, even by a bit, you risk burning the valve edges, but if the valves are even a few thou over the max all you get is lower performance and a clattery valves. Now to do the mod:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/Ht...79XjNDmE0Vov14 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/jJ...j7IIf84cpVAUHo Intake cam setting Exhaust cam setting All done!
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And the rationalization for the modification.
When it comes to performing the work for the MCM, so many people get too bound up in all the original information Marcelino posted and now the images are gone, so I condensed the actual mechanical aspect into a relatively easy instruction to follow. I list it in my signature. It does not tell you what the performance difference is or any other of the technical aspects, just how to do it. I kind of wish the administrators here would make the straight forward mechanical information a sticky since the original is so convoluted now. I don't want that information to get lost should something happen to my Google Drive or any other copies out there. You see what happened to the images when Marcelino let them disappear. No idea why, but it shows how it is possible for information to disappear on the internet... unless it's porn of course. Here are my thoughts about the MCM after reading up on the information about cam lobe separation angle. Hot Rod published an article on wide LSA vs narrow LSA, which plays into intake-exhaust overlap in an engine. Click here to read the article. Seems the narrow LSA put out more power when "on the cam". It lost a small amount down low - the reason why a well tuned car with a performance cam has a lumpy idle, where the wider LSA would run smoother down low, but not put out maximum possible power. Because of that I think it's probably actually got a positive effect on any of the KLX displacements whether 250, 300, 330, or 351. But why do the riders of the bigger bores say it doesn't feel more powerful or even a bit less powerful. Then... A few days back I read an article about jetting written by Kevin Cameron in Motorcyclist. He brought up that in a jetting session with his rider, Cliff Carr, they were struggling, then all the sudden after one change the lap times fell by four tenths of a second per lap. When Carr came in Cameron asked, "How did it feel?" Carr said, "If felt flat." Then Cameron shows him the times. Seems the bike felt flat because it was easier to ride faster. I kind of wonder if those butt dynos are missing the fact that the bike might just be running harder easier. I don't know if anyone has done a dyno run on a 300, 330, or 351 with stock setting then MCM, I haven't seen any. So there is no actual proof either way - to my knowledge. But the article in Hot Rod on wide LSA vs narrow LSA and some other reading on the topic reinforced what should happen when the overlap increases, what happened with the KLX, more power through the mid into the top range regardless of displacement since it is about cam design. Whatever might be lost is lost so far down in the range that it is virtually unnoticeable since we don't chug around at idle to 2000 rpm or wherever. I think the KLX stock cam timing was originally to cut overlap to run cleaner since less intake charge could escape at the lower rpm..It sacrificed the power to meet the DOT/EPA standards. What it comes down to is that the narrower LSA plays into the cam design and the best power delivery. Seems it works on a 500+ ci LS motor, a 1986 Honda CB700SC (Joe Minton did the same thing Hot Rod and Marcelino did on a Nighthawk S), so if it does work to the cam design why should it work on a 250cc, a 700cc, and a 500 ci engine, but suddenly not make sense or work on a 300, 330, or 351? Since the article didn't really distinguish between displacements, but rather only the cam design using three identical lift/duration cams with only difference being the LSA, it makes me wonder if the situation that Cameron encountered with Carr might be the same with the riders who said "no difference" or "felt weaker". Until someone does something to demonstrate that isn't correct I guess I'll say that's my story and I'm sticking to it. By the way both Hot Rod and Joe Minton did do dyno runs. Makes one wonder, think, and research a bit when something catches your eye - I subscribe to Hot Rod so it caught my eye. |
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Put mine in the other day. That back bolt was a bitch but I managed to get it in without an extension or taking off my muzzy header. Really quieted down the cam chain. I did finger tight and backed it off two edges on the bolt as directed. Thank you!
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Good deal and yes that back fastener is a pain to deal with, one reason for the blue LocTite...
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If you take the L shaped allen key and bend it, then use needle nose plyers it helps. Yes I used Locktight!
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Originally Posted by ekim250
(Post 550419)
If you take the L shaped allen key and bend it, then use needle nose plyers it helps. Yes I used Locktight!
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Originally Posted by philgoodklx
(Post 550428)
Bend it straight?
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TNC had the trick with the long extension set up. Illustrated in the instructions. Just do it using the 4mm allen to install the fasteners, then a 6mm to do the adjustment. Makes life easy. Those long extensions don't get used often, but when you need one they're well worth having.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.kaw...e256b482c0.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.kaw...07561996cc.jpg |
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