You know, it's potato and potatoh.. What he left with did in fact produce the improvements over the blue power curves on run 1 ( Run 1 is what is shown on his chart for blue power curves) ..

All I am saying is a simple FYI for the membership - the delta between a "before and after" on a dyno tune from a typical shop cannot usually be trusted.

And BTW, the charts I've posted in here are ALL showing "best run" on all power curves.

 

I have a 2023 300 ds with full barker exhaust djfc from barker .it has there tune tuned for lidless set up runs great. Deleted pair also. Wish there was a way to add more timing like the early Australian models had 40 degrees i believe it would be 30+ hp if you could add 10 degrees

 

Testing different timing schemes has been done - by me.
The Aussie scheme causes significant power loss on the lidless setup for Carb'd KLX250's compared to the stock scheme. In fact, no significant power increase was able to be found in the upper 1/2 rpm range over the stock scheme.
Nominal power increases in upper range were found in the 27 degree (total advance) range compared to the stock 25 degrees.

I assume you've removed the computer controlled secondary throttle valve. If not, then that's your next move for increased performance.

 

I removed that today and it does seem more responsive. Thinking about take it to the dyno to see if the fueling is correct. Btw my 250 rev 10500rpm with ease this 300 seems to go to 9000rpm

 

I did most of the things suggested in this form cheap slip on restrictor throttlebody removed EJK w/o2 delete, rubber air box thing pull out, pair valve delete ,EGR delete, and after a long test ride I noticed a VERY blue spot on header (after programming some base ejk settings mentioned in this thread) I decided to take the bike to a local Dyno shop to tune the EJK. And my bike was very lean they said. In the picture the top settings are my doing. And the bottom numbers are from the Dyno shop.. maybe this helps someone. Or if it blows up we can have something in common. Jk … lol

 

Thanks for posting this! Did they tell you what air/fuel ratios this gave you? Did they give you a printout that shows HP and torque?
I have done all the same things to my KLX, with the addition of a FMF Mega Bomb head pipe and I'd be interested to see some numbers if you have them.

Thanks again!
dankly

 

If the shop did not tell him, or provide a chart, for his new fueling, I can say with confidence that they put him at 13 - 13.2 at WOT.
Dyno tuners do not understand AFR burn rates, the connection between the ignition scheme and the operating AFR, or any other deep knowledge about ICE.
They use prevailing dogma as targets for tuning - I believe they get their target AFR from the fact that the Dynojet software on their dyno's has a default position of the red AFR target line of just over 13:1


So, lean WOT fueling is the norm and expected.

12.6 - 12.8 is the correct WOT AFR in most cases.

 

It was very hard for me to find a Dyno shop that would even work with the EJK , most laughed and hung up. And the shop I found had never messed with the EJK. They mainly did pro dirt bike builds and the small sprint cars w/sport bike motors, they were very respectful and informative. When I dropped it off I told them I was worried about the blue spot in the header ,that i think I have a very lean spot somewhere in the power range and that I just want a safe / reliable air fuel mixture. The day I picked it up they showed me the finished chart after them doing nine pulls and said things I have no clue what it meant, I sat there nodding like I had a clue what they were talking about.where I asked “so it’s fixed?” and they Pointed at the screen showing me the difference and I remember seeing a very flat line and they said this is your air fuel ratio, so I was happy and left ,,, Looking back I now have more questions, why didn’t they put back in or use an O2 sensor to best tune my bike , why the bike only made 22hp (shop claimed it was the Worst day/weather of the year for tuning, plus their Dyno fluctuates 6 to 8 hp) .. etc. aka I have some regrets after finding one of the most informative videos on all this EJK style tuning..

I’ll try to post that video link in here

 

Please share any other observations you might remember.
Just the fact that you saw a very flat line is extremely important - it means they were able to create stable fueling at WOT.


Your list of worries are unfounded - forget them.

 

Everyone with a newer EFI bike needs to watch that video and capture the data presented.

I will provide information as I work thru the vid.

1. He should not be running pulls on the bike with the seat removed - only "seat on" testing provides accurate testing.
2. As I note in a post above, he has left the target AFR ( red line ) on its' default setting of approx 13.1 : 1 - As usual, it does not look like he knows enough about AFR to know that 13 or more is too lean for WOT ops.
3. His vid becomes very unclear on what he is doing to the airbox and when.