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Thanks for information.
Yes the .bin file is something your tuner/dyno guy will have and it would be a good place to start
I don't think I will pull the trigger on anything yet.
I got an APItech recently but it’s been hard to find a tuner in Malaysia that’ll help me with it. Kinda surprising since apitech is pretty common in underbone bike circles. Found one that’ll work on it and will post some findings as soon as I take my bike there(had a coolant leak post head porting)
A couple of days ago I did a number of dyno runs to compare all kinds on intakes/snorkels (more on this later). Finally I did it using road tire to precise numbers.
But this post not about intakes (yet). I want to re-iterate on the difference between standard (restricted) ECU and performance ECU (Japan and early years Indonesian markets). The difference is HUGE.
You all remember my chart which demonstrates 7500rpm power cliff on the standard ECU (pink). I believed that red line (performance ECU) and pink line (standard ECU) match each other below 7500rpm and the difference is negligible/dyno error due to dual sport tires. I was wrong (see second dyno chart below)!
The new dyno chart is made using road tire. And I made several runs and all of the consistent: performance ECU starts making difference from 5500rpm and after 7500rpm is the whole different world.
If you need one of these ECUs - message me, I'm happy to help, I still can source a limited number in Indonesia.
[QUOTE=tsc;559242]A couple of days ago I did a number of dyno runs to compare all kinds on intakes/snorkels (more on this later).
Oh brother.. Still beating that dead horse aren't ya ...
A better way to spend your time would be to get the WOT fueling under control.
It needs to stay between 12.6 and 12.8 to 1.
It should never touch 13:1 or leaner.
