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I just finished my install of the KLX250SF Supermoto fender on my 2018 KLX EFI. I think it looks better and it's better at high speed as the front fender is less of a sail on the freeway.
It's not quite a bolt-on as the stock angle doesn't allow enough clearance to the front wheel. (first pic)
To make it work you have to add a couple of 1/4-20 half in aluminum (or steel) spacers to the back. You also need longer M6 screws in the back to accommodate the extra length (second pic). I also added some rubber grommets to help even out the angle a bit. Also use loctite just to be on the safe side. Now the front wheel has enough clearance and the bike looks more aggressive IMHO.
I just finished my install of the KLX250SF Supermoto fender on my 2018 KLX EFI. I think it looks better and it's better at high speed as the front fender is less of a sail on the freeway.
It's not quite a bolt-on as the stock angle doesn't allow enough clearance to the front wheel. (first pic)
To make it work you have to add a couple of 1/4-20 half in aluminum (or steel) spacers to the back. You also need longer M6 screws in the back to accommodate the extra length (second pic). I also added some rubber grommets to help even out the angle a bit. Also use loctite just to be on the safe side. Now the front wheel has enough clearance and the bike looks more aggressive IMHO.
I have a SF and want to run my 21" front wheel and this looks like the cheap fix. Was tire clearance checked by fully compressing the fork? If not I will try the mod and post my clearance.
I just put in a 1/2 inch spacer on the back two bolts and the back of the fender hit the tire before the fork was fully compressed when I tested it. Bike currently has a 21" front wheel installed with a SF fender. There was over an inch of fork travel remaining when the tire hit the back fender edge.
Definitely a locked up front wheel risk. It would be better to have the front of the fender hit the tire. Will play with it and see if I can fully compress the fork without hitting the front tire. Else I could modify the SF fender, or get the S type fender.
***Edit*** I pulled the spacers out and broke out the heat gun. Warmed the fender almost to melting and applied moderated upward force with an object between the fender and tire with forks fully compressed. Spent a good while heating all over the front of the fender coaxing it to bend/flow plasticly and now it's cooling down with a good gap and the fender looks nearly stock. I can bottom out the fork without the fender hitting the tire now. No buckling or stretch marks and the plastic is nice and black now. I may treat all my weathered looking plastic with a quick surface heat to renew it's appearance. If you have applied the spacer treatment to the back two bolts of your front fender please check clearance at full fork compression and make sure you will not cause a crash due to interference.
Pictures with forks fully compressed and extended, no spacer after reshaping fender.
Last edited by snappster; Oct 28, 2018 at 02:02 AM.