Hmm. Certainly food for thought.
What did you do about the kacr?

 

Hey Phil,

Taking the spring off the KACR is all that is needed to disengage it. After removing the spring, there was no difference in starting cold or hot.

Cheech

 

Cheers pal.
Just done 14:48, ejk, Delkevic racing, kdx snorkel and Pair valve.
MCM next.

 

I went to a 13/42 before 14/48, and found both steps a big improvement. Straight to the 48 would have been awesome. I found a big skill improvement came from changing to heavy duty tubes. Means you can run lower tyre pressures and have the ***** better search for any possible bit of hard surface for grip. I run 10 pound tyre pressure, but you do need rim locks front and back.

Doing the MCM was pretty scary as you don't want to stuff it up. But as klxster and klx678 say, as long as the cams/sprockets look the same as the pictures, you can't really go wrong. And it isn't difficult if you have a bit of experience tinkering with things mechanical. One other comment/observation,,, I was surprised the bolts undid so easy. I thought they would have been tighter. Then when I torqued them up to the load as per the manual, the torque wrench clicked with less load than I thought. Being a bit paranoid, I gave them a bit extra by hand. Otherwise I would have been having nightmares about cam nuts coming loose (even with loctite). This may not have been the right thing to do, but I did it anyway.

Cheech

 

That's right. As long as the engine does not rotate during the MCM session - meaning that it stays at TDC on the power stroke while you work - you just make your cams & cam gears look like the pictures !

 

I went 13 first, as I suspect many do (no need to change the chain). Imo it's the biggest step forward. As you say 14:48 is even better. Also had hd tubes and rim locks fitted recently with Michelin Enduros.
Run 14psi front and 12 rear. May try 12 and 10 but concerned about the front rim and possible pinch flats. My skill level means that I often hit things harder than intended.
You have added to the excellent work done by '678 and 'ster. Not forgetting the man himself.
Cheers Cheech.

 

Thanks Phil. Not to hijack the thread, but on tyres, I got my last set off a small business seller who use to do a lot of racing and off road. my tyres have rows of 3 and 4 *****, and he said when I get home to check what has been scuffed up. He said the row of 3 ***** should have scuffing right to the outer edge. Otherwise I am not using enough of the tyre as you want all the ***** engaging with the ground. I started at 12lb and was not quite at the outer edge of the ****, so I dropped to 10lb. He said that if it was him he would run 8lb on such a light bike. I also asked why same front and rear as most people run 2lb harder on the front. He didn't have an answer as he said something like, why would you want less grip on the front? I weigh 70kg/155lb so maybe if I was heavier then 12 and 12 may be needed for the extra weight. You could probably do the same check on an old tyre by adding whiteout or white marker to a couple of rows of *****.

Cheech.

 

I'm about 178lbs plus gear. Will check my tyres for scuffs. Great tip and may try lower if inspection warrants it. Still concerned about the front though.

 

Hi All 2012klxs 880 miles and all stock including stock cam cain tensioner.I'm in the process of doing the MCM mod and have a question.Having removed the tensioner and completed all steps including cam retaiining cap, there's still some tension on the chain to the point it pulls the cams slightly out their journals.Lower spring [sub tensioner?] appears to be still pushing on slider. Is this normal as I don't recall reading anything about this.Seems backing out lower bolt would help or is wrestling slightly with the chain on reassembly normal? Thanks in advance

 

I removed the subtensioner when I did this mod, but it's doable without removing it.