I'm going to speculate that the 300 needle might be more aggressive and offer a little better performance. The other kit is probably a good match to a bone stock, later model KLX, but the 300 needle will probably be a better match if you do some/most of the mods that a lot of us do to the KLX as matter of routine. And if you go with a bigger bore of any size, I'd be almost sure that the 300 needle will be superior.

 

So you think, if I remove the snorkel, do the crank case vent, remove the butt plug, and whatever else is in the list of free mods, the 300 kit it probably the way to go?

Sorry for all the questions. I've never done any carb work before, and I just assumed there was one set up the everyone was running.

 

Rooster, we know that both kits work just fine on any KLX. I think the 300 needle is probably just a little more aggressive needle for a better fit to airbox, exhaust, and even bore mods. When I say "aggressive", I'm referring to the needle taper providing more fuel at critical spots in the powerband. It probably has little effect on fuel mileage as long as the whole spectrum of jetting...pilot, fuel/air screw adjustment, main jet, etc is properly addressed and in synch. I would recommend the 300 DJ kit if you're going to do any mods and maybe even a requirement if you're going to do a bore kit. It's apparent that both will work, but I really like the taper on that 300 needle.

 

The 250 kit comes with all the same jets(even more) as the 300 kit. And you do not have to drill the slide. So getting the 300 kit if you are going to do mods is a moot point. The 250 kit and needle work great with BB, exhaust and airbox mods. I would be interested in seeing what the needle from the 300 kit would do in the real world vs. the needle in the 250 kit.

 

Because I live in Canada, my biggest concern was ordering the wrong one. Most of what I order comes from an American source, and sending things back is usually a PITA, not to mention the expense. Looks like I won't have any problem with ordering the wrong one. I just decide which right one I want. Thanks, guys.

 

So, I finally got around to getting and installing my KLX300 exhaust, KDX snorkel, UNI Filter and a DJ kit. I live and ride at sea level, so judging from what we saw on this spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...FE&usp=sharing
My friend (the guy who knows something about carburetors) and I (the guy who knows nothing about carburetors) decided to go with the 124 main, and 3rd notch on the needle. I'm not sure why, but I don't have an A/F screw. All was good until the carb was going back on the bike....

What are the chances that JB Weld is going to hold up for me? I haven't priced another carburetor yet, but I'm not looking forward to it.

 

Well, you don't want to buy a new OEM carb because that wouldn't be cost effective...seeing that you can buy a new TM36 pumper for less. You might find a good used one, however, for much less, but it better be noticeably less or I'd go for the 36mm pumper.

Exactly what is wrong there at that repair point? Can you clarify instead of us just guessing what happened?

 

When he was putting the bracket back on for the throttle cables, the side somehow broke out of the part in the pic that we put the JB Weld on. It broke clean off. He didn't take the bracket off before he took the carb off the bike, so I'm not sure if it got hit and cracked when trying to wiggle it out through the frame, or if something happened when he was tightening the screw back in. Either way, I have JB weld holding my throttle cables on.

 

OK, thanks for the clarification. As long as the original crack or fracture at that point didn't go into a fuel or air circuit in the carb, and you applied the JBW in a good, uniform manner, it should work. You have nothing to lose by trying. I've seen JBW fix some pretty nasty breaks, holes, and fractures. My only concern would be that the throttle cable mount can get some decent pressure by cable pull under certain conditions. If it broke there, it could allow the throttle to become inoperative. I doubt it would cause the throttle to go wide open, but who knows.

 

That's what I was thinking, too. But with the 2 cable setup, that shouldn't be an issue, should it? Whichever way you move the throttle, one cable will retract toward your grip, which should extend the other. I'm not saying I'd go run a hare scramble with the mount broken, but I'm not worried about not being able to get home.

On a side note, does Mikuni pay you for each individual plug you put out for the TM36, or are you on salary?