My tool



A wandering idle certainly could be a wrong setting on the fuel screw.. If your bike has a damaged fuel screw seat - from over tightening the screw closed - you'll have to warm up the bike at 2.5 turns out. And while idling, slowly turn it in until lean idle drop, then back out until idle returns to normal, then out another 1/2 to 1 turn. You probably will not be able to get a rich idle drop with the stock pilot jet - that's where you slowly turn the fuel screw out until idle drops again, this time due to richness..

If you go for a rich idle drop and get one, turn the fuel screw back in to the midway point between the drops.. This is a pain to do but only has to be done once.

 

120 KPH is 73.5 mph... As you've guessed, your bike has a lot more power left in it at 120 KPH now.. I would expect your bike to hit 145 KPH or more..

 

So if I did the MCM, I'd lose top end but gain more torque down low?

I can say for certain that I didn't over tighten the air fuel screw; I tighten it until it was lightly seated, then backed off 2.5 turns. I can't speak for the previous owner, although he seemed to know what he was doing. Bike was jetted as per stage 2 dyno instructions, UNI foam filter, nice slip on..

It actually must have vibrated out because all of a sudden one day my bike would not idle. I had to keep on the throttle for the bike to not stall. So we took the carb out and noticed pretty quickly there was a big hole where something called the idle fuel screw should be.

Thanks for the pic, I'll rig up something like that. Stick it in that handy pack on the back of the seat.

What are your thoughts on dropping to a 13 tooth sprocket? That'll give me my torque, but my higher speeds will suffer, right? Like it will take a lot more RPMs to go 120km/h

 

MCM is mopowah everywhere. My charts between the two exhaust systems proves that MCM will produce fantastic TRQ curves from 4k until the stock header runs the engine out of exhaust flow (9.2k - 9.4k with a good slip-on) but all the way to redline cutoff(10.5k) with a full exhaust system.

So, any crap you read about the MCM causing a TRQ "fall off" in the upper RPM's is just that - Crap.. What does cause a TRQ fall-off above 6.5k is a too small (lean) main jet, airbox lids, and snorkels..

You should read the entire MCM thread carefully before deciding on the MCM as there were some posts ( at least one by Jeff Ward ) suggesting that '06's would not benefit as much as the newer KLX's.. His post did not convince me as I saw no supporting evidence and a lot suggesting otherwise - but you look and see if I missed something..

About the 13 tooth primary - It will enhance TRQ at the rear wheel at all speeds and all RPM's VS the stock 14. Without getting into a long winded diatribe about the subject - a 13 could actually increase your bikes' top end speed. It will certainly accelerate quicker to 120 KPH. Once your at 120 KPH (or any other set speed) your RPM's will be higher than with the 14.

 

I'm curious about your powerband with stock cam timings and FMF slip-on - when you snap and hold WOT from 5-5.5K in 2nd gear, don't you get an intense "swell" of power starting somewhere above 7K ?

 

I'll have to try that specifically but from what I've seen, it's pretty smooth across the board. I really like it, that's why I'm inclined to just leave it be. The smoothness and the beefiness really stand out. It makes the bike seem "bigger" then before.

I was in a parking lot trying to get the front wheel off the ground with just the throttle, and I did notice more pull than before, but there didn't seem to be that big of a swell, which I like. Clutching up into a wheelie is extremely easy now, very noticeable compared to before.

I'll try that specifically and get back to you.

I have a feeling the later model klxs have better tuned engines than the 06s and 07s. I ride with a guy who has a '14 and his accelerates much quicker than mine on dirt. I'm pretty sure all he's done is put a slip on exhaust, not even jetting. His bike just seems much faster than mine and it's all stock, aside from the tail pipe.

I think the older models are more durable, the newer are faster. He blew a gasket in his engine head at about 5000km, I actually saw it happen. My bike and my friend's 06 are both around 16000km and seem to have no issue whatsoever. My friend's 06 has the pumper carb and the 331 bill blue big bore, I've noticed my bike now feels more similar to his, only smoother and less power. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, especially since all the most significant mods cost me the same as an off road inner tube.

 

Well I think there is more to that '14 than you know.. If all he's done is add a slip-on, your bike should now be able to run off and hide from his.. Even if he is jetted but with the airbox lid on, and has added a 13 tooth primary, you should certainly be able to keep pace until your superior 7k-9.4k power kicks in ... Now if he has better traction due to better offroad tires, you'll never keep up as your bike will now just spin the rear tire instead of accelerating - and be careful on pavement as it'll spin the rear there too - certainly don't get too aggressive on the throttle while in a turn, in second gear! I learned that lesson the hard way - didn't go down but it scared the PeePee outta me..lol

 

Your wheelie efforts: You have to find the correct starting RPM for your bike.. It'll certainly be higher than mine. Also, I'm 6'1" , 220 lbs with most of my weight above my belly - this likely makes it easier for me to wheelie..

 

Hmm.. Yeah I was just gunning the throttle from slow as possible and hoping the engine will do everything. Maybe I'll try jerking my weight back as I twist to get it up

 

Ok, you don't seem to be understanding this "wheelie thing" - you don't jerk/shift weight, you sit upright and forward on the seat - I'll guess you should start testing snaps to WOT from 25 kph - keep increasing your starting speed in 1 KPH increments until you find the starting speed where a snap to WOT lifts the front tire....