Going Tubliss, one wheel at a time
#11
We're just back from two weeks in CO&UT, almost all off-road. I've installed Tubliss on three of the bikes that made the trip. A few thoughts...
-I've had no tire failures/problems on the trail. My Tubliss are all the new style and use one wrap on the spoke tape. I've had no problems at all with the high pressure tubes.
-All required about 4oz of spoke weights opposite the rim lock and run down the road with no vibration problems.
-The first front tire (oem) on the KLX held air perfectly, the new IRC TR8 (great tire,made in Japan) goes flat overnight. The high pressure tube is holding air fine. It's rear T63 never looses air
-The first front on the Husky (also oem) would go flat after several days, the new Mich Desert Race holds air fine. The rear 908 never looses air.
-The third bike lost air the first few days but after some riding started to hold air.
-I cant prove it but I think it's important to take the bike for a ride after installing to get everything to seat properly. I did on the Husky, didn't on the KLX.
.
-I've had no tire failures/problems on the trail. My Tubliss are all the new style and use one wrap on the spoke tape. I've had no problems at all with the high pressure tubes.
-All required about 4oz of spoke weights opposite the rim lock and run down the road with no vibration problems.
-The first front tire (oem) on the KLX held air perfectly, the new IRC TR8 (great tire,made in Japan) goes flat overnight. The high pressure tube is holding air fine. It's rear T63 never looses air
-The first front on the Husky (also oem) would go flat after several days, the new Mich Desert Race holds air fine. The rear 908 never looses air.
-The third bike lost air the first few days but after some riding started to hold air.
-I cant prove it but I think it's important to take the bike for a ride after installing to get everything to seat properly. I did on the Husky, didn't on the KLX.
.
Last edited by DYNOBOB; 10-07-2013 at 06:35 PM.
#12
Bob, interesting stuff. This is one of the reasons I use sealant in the tire. Some tires are more permeable than others and having sealant pretty stops all puncture flats...and you can still use a plug when you get a nail or such. I agree on the issue of taking at least a quick ride right after installation for things to "bed in".
#13
Now I'm really jonesing for a rear set up. I still need to balance the front. I wouldn't bother but I ride on the road to get to any trail, seeing as how there is almost zero riding in the White Mountain Nat'l Forest.
#15
Sometimes you need sealant. You should run sealant anyway, as it stops just about any puncture in the tire with this setup.
#16
TNC, do you add sealant through the valve hole or as you are mounting the tire?
Got a favorite? I've got a jug of Slime and access, at work, to Stan's. I was leaning towards the Slime.
I definitely need sealant...
Got a favorite? I've got a jug of Slime and access, at work, to Stan's. I was leaning towards the Slime.
I definitely need sealant...
#17
I've tried Slime and it was so-so. Stan's sealant for mountainbikes is the stuff that has worked without fail. It's pricier than Slime, but it's a better, latex based product.
#19
That was another negative of tubeless Slime. It was downright nasty to get everything cleaned and prepped for a new tire. Stan's can be easily wiped out with a couple of paper towels. For something that's not very nasty, Stan's seals punctures amazingly well.
#20
fwiw, tubeless bike tires in trials and street have a different shape bead, and a different shaped rim to match. Why they hold air so well. Dirt rims often have teeth cut to hold the tire, dings and dents from riding. Plus the low psi we run rolls the tire around more on the bead. Point being, constant monitoring of psi is a tubliss thing, and goop.