Front Fork Install help

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  #1  
Old 10-29-2018, 04:38 PM
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Default Front Fork Install help

I took my front wheel off a couple of weeks ago and fixed a flat & now trying to get it back on.

Can someone that has a 250 07 or so take a look at their's? Previously I had the shop do the work and it looks like it is missing something.
I check bike bandit parts fish but they don't have a washer on the right side where the pinch bolts are. But when I work the forks and get them square & set, there is over 1/8" gap from the pinch bolt facing to the speedometer facing & the speedometer casting is what is making the first contact back where the speedometer pin is sitting in the right fork holding pins, I can't get this space out of the axle shaft and it looks polished like it should be up tighter @ the axle. I'm the only one in the area that has a kawa.



Do you guys have a washer there, or an 1/8 gap where you can see the front axle between the pinch bolt housing and the wheel bearing? Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 10-29-2018, 06:06 PM
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Does the larger diameter portion of the axel push the speedo assembly into place? If so, you don't need a washer. Yes, my 2000 KLX 300 has a similar gap.

Ride on
Brewster
 
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:26 PM
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OK, you have a gap, thks.

The speedo unit is flush on the wheel side, and it has a metal housing that the fork pin sets into and on mine that is what is hitting, limiting the movement of the left hand fork/wheel to close the gap I am speaking of. Seems strange that it is made that the speedo unit would limit the travel to close that gap.
 
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Old 10-30-2018, 03:41 PM
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On my 650 I leave the clamp loose, tighten the axle, no washer, against the speedo drive while making sure the speedo drive doesn't rotate the notch for the speedo block on the fork leg that aligns with the tab on the fork. That means the axle protrudes slightly through the fork, taking up that space you see. Then I bounce the front a few times to make sure the forks are not binding and tighten down the clamp nuts. The pre-09 250 fork is the same setup, not sure about the 09 up.
 
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Old 10-30-2018, 04:46 PM
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Tightening the axle does not move the right for against the speedo. Nothing tightens the speedo other than the notch in the front force to stop it from rotating, unless you physically just push the fork into it. Then you do the bounce and it opens back up, for me anyway.

I did bounce and then tighten the clamp bolts, I still have about 1/8" gap & it seems ok.
 
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Old 10-30-2018, 07:13 PM
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That is correct, the speedo drive tightens up against the bearing, not the fork. The axle should come in against the speedo drive pulling the inner part tight against the bearing. The speedo drive notch does not fit tight to the tab. I don't think it was even half way engaged on the 650, just enough to make sure the speedo drive wouldn't rotate under any circumstances
 
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Old 10-31-2018, 12:02 PM
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Obviously the 250 and the 650 are different, as what you are saying is not happening on the klx.
As I remember it....
On the 250, the front axle has a shoulder on it, which it tightens against, but the shoulder rests on the right hub bearing in the hub. The speedo is just a straight hole that it bigger dia than the axle shaft, the only thing that pushes the speedo unit towards the hub is the fork, and the exact spot of contact with the fork is the rotational locating pins.

I got it all together and went for a test drive, everything seems fine.

Hold this thought, I am going to have another look later today.
 
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:16 PM
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Interesting considering the speedo drive is the same as the one in the KLX650 based on part number, plus the 09 is the same. Instead of a spacer, the axle is shouldered, the shoulder when the axle is tightened, will go through the loosened clamp on the right fork leg, coming to rest against the speedo drive, There is no spacer. After the axle is tight, the right fork leg clamp is tightened down on the axle. That is how it works. See image below to see the axle and speedo, no spacer on the right.

 

Last edited by klx678; 10-31-2018 at 03:33 PM.
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