Got it done, I had the bike scattered all over my garage for some time but its back now. I had posted a couple of times talking about it because the new cylinder was on but it wasn't done. Tonight it is, I'm about 20 miles into my break in and I'm still grinning. Stock CV carb and all it's a huge difference, I passed 2 cars tonight without a down shift at half throttle. I'll run three or four tanks of gas thru the thing switch back to synthetic oil and it's on. Even without running the bike hard the difference is very noticeable. There are a number of people on this forum with excellent write ups which made the work much easier than just a manual would have alone. Thank you to everyone who took the time to document their work as that made the job fairly strait forward and easy.

 

They are transformed with a big bore. If you do alot of road a 15t front sprocket works very well with the added torque. The stock 14t works well for off road. I find the 13t is not needed with the big bore.

 

That's good to hear, I'm looking forward to when I get a chance to put the 351 kit on mine.

 

Congrats! My advice is not to switch to synthetic, it has been known to cause some clutch slippage.

I also run the stock carb and find the power pretty impressive, 27hp is what I was dynoed at. With a pumper carb, webcams, and some head work I don't think 35 horsepower is out of reach!

 

Way to go linkin! Welcome to the 351 club. What production number is yours? Just curious what Bill is up to now.

Congrats! Ride on.

 

The issue of running synthetic motor oil in wet clutch engines is somewhat exaggerated IMO. I've run several types/brands of synthetic oils in 4-strokes of differing brands and models without problems. I've raced enduros on many Honda XR's over the years where the clutch was flogged mercilessly without issues resulting from the oil. Now, there may some synthetic oils out there that might have some kind of magic sauce blended in which can cause problems, but I haven't run across it.

Without getting into an oil thread and endless debate, I'd recommend something like Mobil One in the proper viscosity since it's readily available from nearly every source, even WalMart. I've used it in wet clutch bikes since it first appeared, and I've never had clutch issues caused by the oil. I'm not even concerned with the M1 being extended mileage, regular, high mileage vehicle, or otherwise. I've used it all and noticed no problem whatsoever as long as I used the right viscosity. In the same time period I've intermittently used Castrol Syntech, Valvoline synthetic, and another or two...still no issues.

All that said, I doubt there's much issue in running any quality, conventional, non-syn, motor oil either. I just like synthetics, and particularly M1, because I think they do resist the shearing of the oil molecule chains better than conventional oils. The shearing occurs most in the transmission. This is why you often see a specifically rated gear oil for manual trannies and differentials. I think lab testing generally shows that most quality synthetic oils resist shearing better than most conventional oils. Our bikes lube the tranny with one oil source...motor oil.

 

Congratulations mate!

Any thread in particular you found useful? I think I am on the verge of upgrading so any help would be appreciated.

I am going to have the added joy of having to try sort out jetting on my FCR carb. Bill doesn't have any recommendations for the FCR specifically unfortunately, so I am going to be "in the wild" a little. Ahh well, all adds to the fun!

 

No sweat arctra... Slap in a 158 main same pilot same needle clip

Doing those power wheelies is what killed the original clutch plates & springs when I did the big bore. Replacing the clutch springs right away might have saved me that trouble, that massive increase in power is what kills it!

Dirt surfer & no brakes did write ups that helped me the most, that and a factory service manual. It's not that difficult, only moderately more so than a two stroke!

 

Can you link those two write ups?
Here are a couple I used.

Dan888: Bill Blue 351 install, Pic’s links

armycopter: 351 Mod

 

I used IDRIDR and Armycopter, I'm sure a few more. I spent one night with the search function until I could see the job ahead in my mind, The stock manual was still a must. I had a good mechanic friend over when the piston went in and we used a hose clamp as a ring compressor. For that job I think 2 sets of hands were a must. My only issue was as I got finished I had a fuel leak that turned out to be one of the small in hose filters was pushed against the wall and once fixed the starter cranked it to life instantly. Again this job was much easier with all of the quality folks found here.