Still getting familiar with the 2019 KLX250, thought it was funny that you can't start this model while in gear and clutch disengaged. Turns out you are supposed to be, as long as the clutch is disengaged and kickstand up.
So pulled off the switch below the clutch perch and it seems to be functioning, so gotta track down where the wire is either cut or disconnected.
Changed the oil not knowing when the PO had. Every manufacturer has their own approach, curious as to how others deal with the back up spring on the oil filter. I considered laying the bike on the left side, so that the spring would remain in place but ended up using a bit of grease and sticking it onto the filter when I placed it back in. Seemed to work. But seems like the manufacter would have used a slightly larger diameter spring, so it would lodge in the case. Oil level sight glass is right behind the brake pedal making it a bit difficult to gauge the oil level, but manageable . Some have complained about how easily handlebars can be bent, I'm trying my best not to do so, but noticed that the manufacturer drills holes in it to fasten cable guides, which would seem counterproductive. Nothing's perfect,but overall I am glad I picked this up.

 

I lay mine down on a mx stand to get the spring to stay

 

That would work. probably easier than laying it all the way down, as far as picking it back up. Never developed a taste for picking bikes back up, hard enough just to pick myself up.

 

I keep the bars at full lock to the clutch side and pick it up by the wrap around hand guard since i have it tied in to the bar clamp. Bend at the knees and it comes up pretty quick from the mx stand

 

With the oil filter spring, just gently unwind the bottom coil a bit to widen it. Then it stays stuck in position in the cover nicely without falling out.

The stock bars are like butter so you'll want to be prepared to upgrade. Kawasaki used 7/8ths bars, but it's not a bad idea to run 1-1/8 tapered bars. This can be done by using adapters sold by Pro Taper that screw into the stock upper triple clamp. Why do we need adapters? Because Kawasaki used an upper triple clamp with the lower bar clamp cast right into it, instead of a traditional dirt bike that has separate lower bar clamps that you can uninstall independently.

Check them out here: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...sku_id=1020945

One thing to be aware of is that the stock cables don't offer a massive amount of extra slack. Those adapters obviously provide some rise just by themselves, so you'll need to choose replacement bars that do not have an aggressive rise unless you intend on replacing the cables too.

If you buy Pro Taper bars or similar, they will not have those holes drilled in them for the handlebar controls' locating pins, so unless you want to drill into them, you'll have to cut those plastic pins off the controls. To keep the controls from moving during operation, you can wrap some electrical tape around the bars right under where the controls will be reinstalled, and that added thickness with allow you to cinch them down snug enough to remain in place.

Regarding the oil sight glass, don't forget that the bike must be vertical when reading the oil level. Don't put the bike on the kickstand and start filling the oil and watching that sight glass, or else when you stand it back up straight it'll be over-filled.

 

I put a magnet inside the spring so it sticks onto the back of the oil filter.