If the battery is dead enough not to be able to put out enough amperage to blow the fuse, then you would also have that problem as well.
Check how many amps are running through when the key is on. Really when your bike is off you should get like 13 or 14v from the battery.
Take the leads off the battery, also pull out your bulb in your headlight ( I think, can't remember the light in it.) and tail light, and check for a short with an ohmmeter across the + and - leads.
That may narrow it down to a short, or not.

another idea would be to take off the + lead from the battery, and turn your key on. Touch the + lead to the + pole of the battery. If you get a big arc, then you definetly have a short, if it's a little one, probably not (or the battery is dead).

 

Finger,

The clearest view of the starter circuit I could find is on page 15-17 of the supplement. The starter circuit appears to be autonomous to the rest of the electrical system. As near as I can tell, all of your safety switches and the ignition switch appear to be good, along with the starter relay that provides +12v to the starter motor. I can see why no fuses blow. Once the starter relay is energized, there is no fuse inline with the starter motor. If the starter motor is shorted, it certainly is capable of dropping the entire 12 volts. If it were me, and I had the bike running with the kick starter, I would assume that either the wiring from the battery to the starter motor or the starter motor itself was the problem. I'm wondering if autozone could run the starter motor on their tester and tell you if it's shorted. There are some electrical checks on page 15-15, but those seem to be for finding an open on the brushes/windings.

Good luck,

Tom

 

You guys are killing me on the battery thing..... I'm a boater, we know batteries better than IowaGuy knows Corn Battery is Good.

Pull out the bulb...lol.....I disconnected EVERYTHING except the the cdi .... I left my vapor connected so it would light up if there was power after the key was turned
on....see the starter wire disconnected from the solinoid sticking up thru the seat. I still have not managed to get power back after just turning on the key.



Oh and just for you battery insisters..lol...my klx battery in da Adv.

 

Ohhhh I just got power to the Vapor...

but this is pissing me off more than a waterspout.

 

The reason to pull the bulb, is because if you were checking for a short, you would read across the bulb as 0 ohms in most cases of an incandescent bulb.
I'm only trying to help man. I'm an electrician, so I have a pretty good understanding of circitry(SP? ha).
Did you even try anything I mentioned? If you pull the lead off, and have a short, it will create a large arc when you touch the lead to the pole of the battery.

 

Well after I got power to the vapor, I checked the cdi and sure enough it had juice....connected my baja led tail light...yup she lite up....
I didn't dare connect the starter solinoid wire...and just gave her a few kicks.....whoooo hoooo started on the fourth kick

see




First off you guys without a kick starter should really get one...just sayin.

Here's what it turned out to be....my starter is bad or has a short .....warski, had it dead nutz right.
Solinoid is fine I checked it...but the circut for the starter does not have short protection and will cause
the whole system to crash and not work....only way to reset is disconnect the battery
for a couple minutes and turn on key disconnected...this is very important.
then reconnect and turn on key...she will do nuthin...no worries do it again and wammo you got power to the cdi

Interesting I was the first one to have this happen to em....I'll take the starter off this week
and see what the issue is.....but I can kick her and ride

btw....I did try the starter again and the whole electrical system failed as before but the battery
disconnect and two on switches with the key and she would kick...yeee Haw..I figured it out.

 

I appreciate it Green....I was just a few steps ahead of ya..thats all

Being an electrician please explain the end result...it makes no sense....I just happy to know how to deal with
it if it happens to me in the middle of the swamp.

 

Finger, Glad you 'got er dun'! I've been following the story and hoped to find out what I could from your troubles ... and from every ones suggestions. That's a bit scary to have happen out on the trail ... Guess I'll put the kick starter up on a higher priority status now. HA!

Happy trails,

 

Without a schematic of the CDI it's hard to say exactly, but I suspect that by dropping all of the voltage to ground across the starter, the CDI just "passed out". It requires power for all of the logic circuits to latch on and be able to check all of the safety switches before allowing power to be routed to the igniter circuit. It appears that the CDI simply went to sleep for lack of juice.

What I'd really like to know is how in the hell did the starter short out from a washing? It's o-ring sealed. It looks like a very simple carbon brush motor, you may be able to clean and rebuild it.

 

Do you mean explain why you read 0v when you turned the key? I havn't looked at the schematics, but basically there are 2 different potential's in electricity between + and -. You read the difference in potential. When basically the + and - are shorted, or touching directly, you make the two the same potential, so therefor the potential voltage between the + and - poles is 0, because they are the same by touching them together.