EFI to Carb conversion.
#1
EFI to Carb conversion.
Question for you guys out there?
If i were to convert from EFI to Carb, What would be the best Carb to purchase, I have a 331 BB kit installed , Ported head, 1" bigger inlet valves. FMF power bomb header and Q4 slip on,(In fact I have several local made exhausts that came with the bike with much bigger ID header and slip ons but very noisey)
I purchased a lot of parts for my rebuild and it turns out some of the more expensive items are for a carb bike. IE Programable CDI, IMS tank, my head is another one. lol
I am thinking it would be cheaper to fit a carb than replace the IMS tank alone.
Any way , What would be the best carb to use?
What issues would i have with disconnecting the ECU and running a Paray CDI , instead?
Your thoughts as always are the most valuable asset i have regarding information on my KLX.
Thanks
George
If i were to convert from EFI to Carb, What would be the best Carb to purchase, I have a 331 BB kit installed , Ported head, 1" bigger inlet valves. FMF power bomb header and Q4 slip on,(In fact I have several local made exhausts that came with the bike with much bigger ID header and slip ons but very noisey)
I purchased a lot of parts for my rebuild and it turns out some of the more expensive items are for a carb bike. IE Programable CDI, IMS tank, my head is another one. lol
I am thinking it would be cheaper to fit a carb than replace the IMS tank alone.
Any way , What would be the best carb to use?
What issues would i have with disconnecting the ECU and running a Paray CDI , instead?
Your thoughts as always are the most valuable asset i have regarding information on my KLX.
Thanks
George
#2
No idea what kind of issues you may have going from EFI to carb, but I believe we had some members here in the past that did just that.
The Mikuni TM 36-68 pumper carb will probably give the best performance, but will likely require more tuning time than the stock CVK 34 as less people have used that carb and even fewer have really put the bike on a dyno with that carb. Also I don't know if anyone has compared back to back the TM36-68 to the CVK 34 utilizing klxster's "fat main, dropped needle" method of jetting.
The TM 36-68 is also a pretty expensive carb at ~ $280 USD where you could probably find a CVK 34 for a few bucks.
The Mikuni TM 36-68 pumper carb will probably give the best performance, but will likely require more tuning time than the stock CVK 34 as less people have used that carb and even fewer have really put the bike on a dyno with that carb. Also I don't know if anyone has compared back to back the TM36-68 to the CVK 34 utilizing klxster's "fat main, dropped needle" method of jetting.
The TM 36-68 is also a pretty expensive carb at ~ $280 USD where you could probably find a CVK 34 for a few bucks.
#5
Thanks guys, Still sitting with my bike in bits waiting for Racetech to respond to my many queries after they cocked up and sent me the wrong valves, but will not exchange them or tell me how to set up, the ones i was sent, so lots of thought time on my hands. Sounds like the Mikuni TM 36-68 is the one everyone is most happy with.
#6
I believe Bill Blue (B&B Restoration) sells a 33mm pumper bored out to 34mm.
Page 2. Just another option... which carb is too much or too little (especially with a ported head) I surely don't know...
"http://bandbcyclerestoration.com/Page_2.html"
Freddie
Page 2. Just another option... which carb is too much or too little (especially with a ported head) I surely don't know...
"http://bandbcyclerestoration.com/Page_2.html"
Freddie
Last edited by reinigef; 06-28-2017 at 03:52 PM.
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