MCM + Stage II using the DJ132 main jet will be an eye opener for you.. With even bigger improvements when you get that Barker Exhaust system installed, airbox lid removed, and a lidless CVK setup installed..

 

Neato. That will be my first setup then. DJ stage 2 'by the book' and MCM.

Part two will likely be full Barker, lose the lid and get some bigger jets than the 2152 offers. (Its kinda comical that the 2152 includes 112 and 116 mains)

Can you please recommend me your preferred source for bigger pilots and mains? I need to keep in mind that the air here in the winter is COLD and DENSE.

 

Also, once the MCM is done, get the #40 pilot jet - install it - and set the fuel screw to 2 turns out.
N424-25- #40Pilot Jet - Kaw part no 92064-1108

If you put on the Barker, you will need to pull off the airbox lid, add a DJ144 or a K158 main jet and change the "clip&washers" setting on the DN0228 needle..

You know air density is determined by more than just temp.. But you are correct in that cool, dense, air creates big power increases and changes fueling requirements.

You could certainly go 1 jet size larger than the recipes call for.. So, with Barker system & Lidless, go with a DJ146..

 

I'm happy to report that the first stage of mods to my bike were successful! Thanks for the guidance, Klxster!

I went with the DynoJet stage 2 for a baseline:

Needle: DNO228, 3N + two washers on top. (The washers are for needle stability in the jet, not for needle timing)
Main Jet: DJ128 (my stock exhaust is recommended for DJ124, but I wanted it a bit fatter for cold weather)
Pilot Jet: Stock #35
Slide Spring: DSP027
Air Mix: ~3 turns out, set after reassembly and while running
Snorkel removed
Exhaust Air Switching Valve removed
Cleaned air filter. (I think it was over-oiled to begin with. I washed it out with dish soap and it still had an oily feel, so I wrung it out and reinstalled)

Previously, the bike would only start easily with the enrichment plunger all the way out to its detent. I would leave it idle high for about 20 seconds. It would run poorly until fully warmed up. Lots of bog and mid-range lazyness.

Now it fires with just a tickle of enrichener when cold. I release it immediately and it settles to about 1000 rpms and holds. Warms up to about 1300 rpms after a short ride. Hot starts are okay at about 5 seconds of crank. I've yet to do the MCM and KACR remove, so I expect that will help.

Riding is MUCH improved. It pulls much better in low and mid range without a stutter. Its does smell gassy if I let it sit idle for a couple minutes, but thats okay. If I start fouling plugs I will do a small adjustment.

Next up, full Barker exhaust and MCM.

 

Wow, there's a lot of carb info here and on the rest of the forum and Internet!

With regard to ""The chart we've never had and always wondered about - Best run STOCK with the best run "UNCORKED"(slipon+lidless+proper carb setup). This is the picture that proves, for the cost of a good performance slipon and a few properly matched/installed carb components, you can have a whole "new" bike.." above. What is "properly matched/installed carb components?"

I've been trying to reach Dynojet for days. Perhaps they're shut down.

My two-fitty is getting an oval Delkevic can and missing airbox cover later this week. Leaning toward ordering:
DN0352 needle
A few jets (128, 132, 140?)
Is there a place to buy the individual parts, or a way to get them together?

Thanks!

 

You read and follow the recipe for stock header + performance slipon.. All of which is on my signature line below.