Two things for me -

1. it is unnecessary for the displacment of the 250
2. isn't properly timed making starting harder than without
3. more moving parts to screw up - see pictures of valve cap and twice have had the spring come off on the KACR in my 650 - but unfortunately it actually needs the KACR to spin easily the 250 does not. Mine spun and started in 8 degree F weather.

Thanks for asking.

 

Well... here is where I'm at (see photo)

The KACR sucks... i hate it. Just trying to get the moving parts off cracked a "wing" of the KACR plate, since i wasnt going to put a big old crack back in there, I had to cut off the offending portion. I am passed the point of no return on removing it, which is what I wanted anyway.

My only question is should I cut the rest of it off or just leave it. Pressing it out is really not an option because I dont trust anyone around here to do it without damaging the cam honestly. The cam and gear are so fragile that I dont think you can do it without making a custom holder, and no shop is going to do that. I dont see any issue running it as is except for any imbalance it may cause, but the cam is already not balanced and whats remaining cant weight that much

 

A clamp is easy to make. Here's the one I made before I got a mill and it in action.

 

What surface of the cam are you clamping it onto? cant tell in the pic. Are you bolting it to the bearing surface just below the gear? I was trying to avoid that area...

 

The clamp is just above the mounting ears for the cam gear. I've done over 150 ACR timing mods with no damage to the cams. Please notice that there is a little material hogged out to make sure that no pressure is applied to the ears.
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Ride on
Brewster

 

I don't think the cam is particularly fragile. I'm not saying it's the best way, but I removed my KACR with some blocks of wood, a vise, a long bolt and a BFH. The gear was removed for the MCM at the time. If one has the means, I'm sure pressing it out is the better option, but there are alternatives. Obviously use caution around the bearing and lobe surfaces, but otherwise I think the cam is quite tough.

 

 

It's in Russian but you'll see they pressed out the kack using wooden blocks and a punch.

 

Dunno why I forgot I had this bearing splitter.... Doh. Thanks for the pics Brewster it reminded me I had it.

Large bearing splitter/puller from harbor freight, I'm sure a smaller one would work even better. Was able to press off the KACR with my 12T press (took a darn good bit of force, I was surprised). I braced it on the "lip" that must be the thrust bearing for the cam, Seema to have worked fine, I sun the cam in the head and could not detect any warping or damage

The KACR weighs a surprising amount!!!

 

After removal of the KACR, my 330 fires up almost instantly.

It does 1 or 2 revolutions and fires up with a resounding and crisp crack out the tailpipe, it no longer coughs and chugs its way to life.