well, that's why I said I guessed I could be wrong. it happens once in a while.maybe I did this before installing the uni-filter and didn't have any filter on it. I'd have to physically look inside another airbox to see. I'm sure I'll do this mod again next spring with my new '09 so until then.........the no-bike-itis wait continuously twists the knife in my side.[&o]

 

Drilling the slide is well documented. It is recommended by Dynojet in the development of their kits for CV carbs & my Baja Designs kit for my CV carbbed XRL invloved drilling the slide also.

 

So I should notice an improvement in performance with the cc breather mod? What's the easiest way to do it (drill out the airbox) without removing the damn carb again?

 

Well, as i've said, I figure I may as well do it, since the only thing I really have to lose are a few pennies.

KLXer, if one were to attatch a small UNI filter to the end of the breather line, would this not prevent the airbox from filling with oil whilst in the upper rev range?

I was also thinking that, since i'm still running the bike with the airbox lid ON, perhaps I could just drill a small 1" dia hole in the airbox lid, fit the crancase breather hose through this, and then attatch the filter on the opposite side of the airbox lid.

The big problem I see with this though, is that the crankcase breather could perhaps end up sucking more air than the bike could provide, seeing as we all know the airbox snorkle is about as tight a fit as the youngest of virgins.

My other option is to just zip tie the line onto the frame, and then route the filter into a little pocket of unused space under the seat that i've found. Problem with this though, is that not only is the filter more exposed to dirt and mud (controvertable), but that the whole underside of my seat could end up soaked in oil should the filter not do a sufficient job of filtering the vent fumes.

The other thing I was thinking though, is that could the miniature uni filter perchance restrict the outlet just as much if not moreso than the stock routing?

I'd undertake the "nobrakes" mod, but I just don't feel comfortable with leaving my cylinder and carb so open to "infection". Imagine all the metal shavings being sucked into your cylinder should the bike tip.

I mean, sure, the chance of sucking up something large enough to really do any damage is probably small, but i'd rather just pop a filter on the thing and not take any chances AT ALL!

 

heat up the required drill bit red hot, vise it in some vise-grips and make sure you have, say, 1 minute to spare. it really is easy. make sure that bit is tight as he77 in those pliers though. keep pushing when you see it start burning the plastic and have the air-filter out so you can watch it come through the debated vent hole opening. before you do enlarge it though, look to see just how tiny it really is and how much you enlarge it afterwards.

 

& permanently modifing your box.

Maybe. & note no one has complained of this hapenning on the KLX. I'm just not going to be the one have it happen to. PLus you have to collect all the shavings & who knows if you get them all--espesially if you cut the backfire screen out to get them.ANy possiblegain is not worth the effert TO ME. Not to mention if that filter gets saturated with oil you are probably no different than the tiny opening.

See above.

Really there are two types of PCV valves, spring & ball (like yall are installing) & fixed orifice (like what it is stock) so really all you are doing is going from one style to the other really if you add a PCV valve. What's funny is that on my particular truck the hot mod is to replace the spring & ball PVC with a fixed orrifice one. Not for any performance gains but because the fixed orifice was to supposed to limit the combustion crap from clogging the throttle body as much as the spring ball (again, as it applies to my particular truck).

 

So which way would be the best way to go - the "hot" drill through the existing hole or add the hose with the filter on the end? Or just leave it stock?

 

Jerry Leighton, who was Larry Roeseller's old mechanic, now retired and owner of Four Stroke Works is the one who originally suggested the idea to me when I first discussed buying an FCR35 from him. Jerry know's his stuff when it comes to these bikes. Jerry originally suggested to tie the vent off up near the top of the shock which I did originally using the stock vent hose:

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_675..._/tm.htm#68041

After running like this for a little while, I got paranoid about water entering during high water crossings or even just hosing off the bike. So I bought a longer length of hose by a few inches and terminated at the top of the airbox.

http://www.KawasakiForums.com/m_81366/tm.htm

Here is the final result, for those that don't want to follow the links:





The filter fits fine under the seat. As I mentioned in the first post linked above, I can't say that I noticed any profound performance difference. I'd say this mod goes under the category of "every little bit helps". Kind've like switching from the stock filter to the UNI filter - I didn't notice a big difference. But do enough of those little contributions and they add up to real changes that you can feel.

And while folks refer to this as the "nobrakes vent" mod, I can't take credit for it - it was Jerry Leighton that suggested it to me. I was just the first here to do it, I think.

 

+1 Brian. It's on the "To Do" list this week.

 

Most of us with the off road 250's and 300'sthat have donethe crankcase vent moddon't use the air box lid and put the little Uni filter down in the air box.