Clutch cable, no slack 2006
#11
10-07-2015, 10:32 PM
You're right...it really is a simple clutch setup. Not much to go wrong. When you say "pinned" on the rod, are you talking about how the lever arm is attached to the rod? Mine is welded...or maybe you're talking about something on the shaft/rod inside the cover? It's been quite awhile since I had my clutch out, and then I only had to pull the entire basket while doing a cam chain replacement during a 300 jug install. Does everything look right on the steel cable holder/guide that's attached over by the case clutch lever?
#12
10-08-2015, 03:22 AM
Yes I am sure it's all correct. The clutch works fine. Everything went together as it should. This isn't the first clutch I have put in. I haven't done a lot of them but a few...
I brought it by my mechanic today as I happened to be out that way. His son, Adam, was working with him and Adam used to work at the local Kawasaki dealer as a mechanic. So, he'd done a lot of those clutches. There is a little bit of slack with all the adjusters screwed all the way down.
That clutch mechanism is really simple and, for the post part that I can tell, it's not possible to assemble it wrong and have it go back together and work.
Indeed what I presume was the stock clutch had the same condition.
In thinking about it I wonder if the short arm at the top of the actuator lever/shaft could have slipped? It looks like it's pinned in there. Another poster said he had the same condition that I do. Maybe their arm slipped too?
At any rate there is enough slack (a tiny amount) so the lever moves a few mm before cable pulls the actuator arm. So, for now it is OK. I would like to compare the actuator to another one but don't feel like taking it apart as it works fine.
I brought it by my mechanic today as I happened to be out that way. His son, Adam, was working with him and Adam used to work at the local Kawasaki dealer as a mechanic. So, he'd done a lot of those clutches. There is a little bit of slack with all the adjusters screwed all the way down.
That clutch mechanism is really simple and, for the post part that I can tell, it's not possible to assemble it wrong and have it go back together and work.
Indeed what I presume was the stock clutch had the same condition.
In thinking about it I wonder if the short arm at the top of the actuator lever/shaft could have slipped? It looks like it's pinned in there. Another poster said he had the same condition that I do. Maybe their arm slipped too?
At any rate there is enough slack (a tiny amount) so the lever moves a few mm before cable pulls the actuator arm. So, for now it is OK. I would like to compare the actuator to another one but don't feel like taking it apart as it works fine.
Yeah, I was the one with the same problem, BUT, my bike did NOT have the stock OEM cable. Due to high bar risers that the PO installed, he also installed a 2" longer aftermarket cable which didn't have slack/free play. So, I had to cut 1/2" of the housing off in order for it to be right.
#13
10-08-2015, 01:34 PM
You're right...it really is a simple clutch setup. Not much to go wrong. When you say "pinned" on the rod, are you talking about how the lever arm is attached to the rod? Mine is welded...or maybe you're talking about something on the shaft/rod inside the cover? It's been quite awhile since I had my clutch out, and then I only had to pull the entire basket while doing a cam chain replacement during a 300 jug install. Does everything look right on the steel cable holder/guide that's attached over by the case clutch lever?
Everything looks right I working from memory about the lever rod attachment, basically grasping at straws and trying to come up with a reason why it would be like that, it'll all I could come up with.
Maybe it's a non stock lever at the handlebar. I really cannot figure it out. I looked at the bracket on the case that holds the cable housing and it's fine. I wondered if it was reversed but it's not.
I was a bicycle mechanic for a number of years so cable routing and length are a strong point!. There is a minute amount of play so the clutch shouldn't burn out. The action of it is fine. It's just this mystery that I can't figure.
It's really just the lever, cable, rod, and pusher that make up that system. the stack height is right and everything works.
Really, if the pusher is against the flat of the actuator rod then the slack should be the same no matter what is going on inside the cases.
I bought a cable for a KLX300R thinking that maybe it had something to do with the higher bars, so maybe that cable is too short and the original cable was wrong/too short. Who knows! I've seen things like that happen before.
Oh well, I need to fix an oil leak on my '68 CD175. On to other things unless someone comes up with a fix for this.
#15
10-08-2015, 04:11 PM
Maybe I will try a KLR cable. Good tip.
#16
10-08-2015, 05:24 PM
I put the pre-'08 KLR650 cable on my '06KLX that's fitted with 2" rox risers and bars that may be slightly taller than stock. The '08+ cable is about 4" longer than our cable and I found it too long (tried both). The fit, particularly at the clutch end of business, is different but it works and is more economical than getting a custom Motion Pro cable. Let me know if you have any questions fitting it and I'll get some pics.
Last edited by IDRIDR; 10-08-2015 at 05:33 PM.
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