Cheap ignition advance solution

Old Jul 25, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #11  
jimmy101's Avatar
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Synopsis = dyno ...bloody spellcheckers
 
Old Jul 25, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #12  
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I have done this all my life. Some react better to the adjustment than others. My BMW 1100 gets more on the top end and looses a little on the bottom.

IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT DETONATION IS then don't mess with the timing. You can blow the engine or eat a hole through the piston. Been there done that and seen it way too many times.

The problem is the whole advance curve is being moved, not just the top end.

The first thing may be hot start issues. "Pinging" or detonation could also be a problem especially on a dirt/road bike.

On full sized vans, I can drive them down the road with the engine cover off and turn the distributor until the engine just starts to ping, then back it off a teeny bit. I would end up with a perfectly "power timed" engine.

My 351 KLX ran fine on regular grade gas until it warmed up out side. Now I need high grade because the first fire when I turn the throttle is a ping. I can hear it. This is with stock ignition timing.

Please report back after testing. NOW is when looking at your spark plug will help. If the white porcelain around the + electrode becomes glassy or spotted, its running too hot and WILL cook the rest of the engine. A cooler plug will not help much in this case.

David
 
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 12:47 AM
  #13  
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I saw an antque car that had a manual spark advance.
Could the mounting plate for the sensor be slotted and mounted in a way to allow it to slide by use of a push/pull cable?
Another question I have is, why does full advance get reached at 3000 rpm as opposed to continuing advancing throughout the RPM range?
Craig
 
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 05:30 AM
  #14  
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Do Aussies have ebay down under? Would like to try the Aussie cdi box on my klx... wonder if the electrical plugs are close to being the same.
 
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