Carb Mods
I just finished my carb mods using the drill the slide 7/64's, 2.5 turns on fuel screw, 120 main jet, and the N1TC needle on the 2nd notch method that I have seen in several postings. (Used the 120 main jet and 2nd notch because I live at 5,000 ft); however, I have seen posting that use the stock needle with a shim and install a #40 pilot jet without drilling the slide, is one better than the other?
Drilling the slide vent only increases the speed at which the slide can go up and down. Take the bike for a spin to get it up to temperature and then stop and let it idle for a few seconds, roughly however long you would be at a red light and watch the idle. At 2.5 turns you may be too rich. My specs are in my signature and at 2.5 mine wouldn't idle properly, it wanted to die out at stop signs. At 2.0 turns though it has a nice smooth idle.
i have the n1tc needle on 3rd position, 125 main, a/f 2.0 turns out, full big gun exhaust, uni air filter, 40 pilot jet, all the mods.... sometimes my idle goes up to like 2000-2500, then back down to like 1500.... and when i adjust the idle with the **** when its idling high, when it goes back down by itself it pretty much dies,, so the idle is going up and down, not consistently might i add,,, cant figure it out... any help?
I stayed with the stock pilot. I have #125 main, needle on 2nd position, 2.5 turns on the fuel screw, drilled 7/64 kdx high flow snorkle, full Muzzy exhaust. My bike runs fine. A little decelleration pop but not too much. What would change if I switched to the #40 pilot?
I am running the 132 main on the 3rd position and the 40 pilot with the Full muzzy and the air box cover off. Man the bike is not even the same anymore. it's like I traded the bike in on a KLX 500 if they made one.
Now if I could only loose 50 lbs the bike would be perfect
Now if I could only loose 50 lbs the bike would be perfect
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