Over 6 years ago I pulled out and reinstalled the carb, and somehow got it done without big problems, but now having a heck of a time getting the boot that runs between the airbox and the carb hooked up. Any thoughts on the best step-by-step. So far, cursing has not been a helpful step. At this point the carb is loosely hooked up to the engine. Thanks in advance.

 

Get the airbox side of the carb seated in it's tube first, by squeezing and bending slightly. Tighten the rear clamp a bit. Then use both hands, one on each side of the carb to push it back towards the airbox. Once clear, pivot it a bit clockwise (looking down) to get the front into the engine connection, then release pressure. Wiggle and rotate it a bit to make sure it's all seated and the tubes came over the carb body, then tighten it down.

 

You mention "carb boot", but then it sounds like you're talking about the manifold...part between carb and head. If so, that's odd. The part that usually starts giving trouble is the boot between the intake bell of the carb and the airbox. They actually shrink a little over time...just enough to make full fitment a little short.

On the manifold, the rubber is usually fairly robust and thick. Now, if the carb was installed for some time without the snout of the engine side of the carb fully seating into the rib in the manifold, it could be misshapen now and not allow that rib to match the rib in the carb, giving a less than stable fitment.

Additionally, to insure my carb is fully seated into the manifold, I put just a light touch of mineral oil...very light... smeared into the manifold. Mineral will not harm or react with the rubber in the manifold...not much will hurt that manifold, but mineral oil is guaranteed not to...and it dissipates quickly. With some light lube I can feel that ridge in the manifold pop in and out of the ridge in the carb mouth. And no, that statement was not taken out of the dialogue of a **** video...LOL!

One more thing...I use high quality stainless steel hose clamps the proper width and length to fit within the factory groove of the carb/airbox boot and the carb manifold. The clamps that usually come on most Japanese bikes are pretty flimsy. Do be aware not to overtighten, as the higher quality clamps can allow you to damage the rubber.

 

I should have been more specific: The part I'm having trouble with is 14073A, Duct,Air Filter. Goes between the airbox and the carb.

Don't know that I've got any mineral oil, but I imagine a thin coating of vasoline should work. Gotta keep the **** dialogue going.

The lube did the trick, thanks.