Buying a used KLX250s - What to watch for?
#21
04-16-2010, 11:20 PM
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 1,102
Okay just got back from the dealer and it's a done deal! I was only able to get them down to $2899. The bike is very clean and runs well so I'm pretty happy with the price. It was a one owner bike and he had everything from the day he bought it so I'm pretty confident that the 806 miles is accurate. There really isn't a scratch on it. They should be delivering it to me this afternoon.
I'm back in Kawasaki green after a 20 year layoff!
Gotta go clear out some room in the garage.
I'm back in Kawasaki green after a 20 year layoff!
Gotta go clear out some room in the garage.
#22
04-17-2010, 02:32 AM
Picture here.
http://www.hyperactivemusic.com/KLX.jpg
I do have to adjust the chain. According to the manual it's a little loose.
I'm thinking about taking it off and cleaning/relubing it. How difficult is it to get the chain off? I know there isn't a master link so taking off the rear wheel shouldn't be too hard. I'm wondering how tough it is getting it off the front sprocket?
Damn it feels good to have a bike again...
Street-wise I'm a beginner rider so I'm not real interested in mods at the moment... give me a few months. I did check out some youtube videos and love the way that FMF muffler sounds.
- Mark
http://www.hyperactivemusic.com/KLX.jpg
I do have to adjust the chain. According to the manual it's a little loose.
I'm thinking about taking it off and cleaning/relubing it. How difficult is it to get the chain off? I know there isn't a master link so taking off the rear wheel shouldn't be too hard. I'm wondering how tough it is getting it off the front sprocket?
Damn it feels good to have a bike again...
Street-wise I'm a beginner rider so I'm not real interested in mods at the moment... give me a few months. I did check out some youtube videos and love the way that FMF muffler sounds.
- Mark
#23
04-17-2010, 02:38 AM
Very clean. Stock they had a master so unless it was replaced its there. Can't remove chain without removing the master or the swingarm.
Tension is not too bad, better too loose than too tight. Maybe click it up a half notch.
Tension is not too bad, better too loose than too tight. Maybe click it up a half notch.
#24
04-17-2010, 02:43 AM
Super clean bike!! Looks nice. Mines an "07" but it doesn't look that nice anymore. The chain does in fact have a master link. Someone on here did a little write up on removing the master link/chain.
Congratulations on the shiny new bike.
Dan
Congratulations on the shiny new bike.
Dan
#25
04-17-2010, 02:51 AM
Here's that write up on the chain removal. Great tips in this post! Makes it easy to remove your chain.
Dan
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=6527
Dan
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=6527
#26
04-17-2010, 03:06 AM
Thanks for the info guys. I was on the crapper (of course) and reading the manual where it say no master link. Oh well. I'm glad it does. Make's cleaning MUCH easier.
Damn I'm getting my permit first thing Monday so I can ride with my brother next week. He lives next door and has a few street bikes. We grew up with dirt bikes and now he's telling me he's going to have to get one. He's older than me and had a KE175, I had the KE100. Before that I had an XR75, CT70, and of course the old minibike with the lawnmower engine with no suspension so that at about 20mph it would shake so hard you couldn't see straight. Then of course the chain would pop. Put the chain on, drain the float, fiddle for 10 minutes to get it started for another 30 second ride. Jeez the energy of youth.
Damn I'm getting my permit first thing Monday so I can ride with my brother next week. He lives next door and has a few street bikes. We grew up with dirt bikes and now he's telling me he's going to have to get one. He's older than me and had a KE175, I had the KE100. Before that I had an XR75, CT70, and of course the old minibike with the lawnmower engine with no suspension so that at about 20mph it would shake so hard you couldn't see straight. Then of course the chain would pop. Put the chain on, drain the float, fiddle for 10 minutes to get it started for another 30 second ride. Jeez the energy of youth.
#27
04-17-2010, 04:10 AM
Worn cam chain?...yes...I have one hanging on the wall in my shop. The reason is not a crappy chain or a bad guide design. It's from the tensioner not doing its job properly. Mine was worn out in 11,000 miles and made a nice "knack/knack" sound at idle and other odd points in the rpm range. I would say that most KLX's don't have this problem as the tensioner seems to do its job, but you will see enough complaints about this to confirm the cam chain noise.
The solution on a problematic tensioner is to replace it with an OEM version, replace it with a manual version (Krieger), or periodically treat the original tensioner like a manual tensioner. It seems that some tensioners don't extend enough over time because of some stiction, weak spring, or something else. This lets the chain run loose which oddly doesn't seem to wear the cam sprockets, guides, or crank gear to any degree but does let the chain stretch prematurely.
Now, I will occasionally pop the end cap off my tensioner and insert an allen wrench into the bore and moderately exert pressure into the back of the chain guide...no hammers or pry bars. My OEM tensioner was holding its position as evidenced by the lack of any slippage or wear marks at the ratchet teeth, but it was apparently not extending forward with enough force to keep the chain at a more optimum operating tension. Just replacing the chain totally removed the annoying knack-knack rattle, and it's quiet as heck now.
The solution on a problematic tensioner is to replace it with an OEM version, replace it with a manual version (Krieger), or periodically treat the original tensioner like a manual tensioner. It seems that some tensioners don't extend enough over time because of some stiction, weak spring, or something else. This lets the chain run loose which oddly doesn't seem to wear the cam sprockets, guides, or crank gear to any degree but does let the chain stretch prematurely.
Now, I will occasionally pop the end cap off my tensioner and insert an allen wrench into the bore and moderately exert pressure into the back of the chain guide...no hammers or pry bars. My OEM tensioner was holding its position as evidenced by the lack of any slippage or wear marks at the ratchet teeth, but it was apparently not extending forward with enough force to keep the chain at a more optimum operating tension. Just replacing the chain totally removed the annoying knack-knack rattle, and it's quiet as heck now.
#29
04-18-2010, 03:22 AM
GRAB IT!!! You can do a lot of free upgrades and many of the suspension etc use the KLX 300 parts. I just got mine last fall and am completely in love with it. Mine is strictly dirt (for now) and I did the suspension, jetting, exhaust, gearing... I keep up w/ guys on MX bikes and have a lower seating position so a low CG. I love it. GET IT! www.NADA.com has it listed at $27 hundred and change, http://www.nadaguides.com/default.as...K&gc=MC>c=MC
$3k with a fresh dealer service is in the ballpark. I wouldn't feel taken advantage of anyway. Especially if they'll offer some sort of 90 day deal.
Good Luck and ENJOY!
$3k with a fresh dealer service is in the ballpark. I wouldn't feel taken advantage of anyway. Especially if they'll offer some sort of 90 day deal.
Good Luck and ENJOY!
#30
04-18-2010, 06:28 PM
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 1,102
Picture here.
http://www.hyperactivemusic.com/KLX.jpg
http://www.hyperactivemusic.com/KLX.jpg