Time for a new shop, called yours.

 

That actually makes sense. I t seems like it has no fuel to fire up. I knoe there is normal air flow, battery is good, it sounds like it is trying to fire, but seems like there is nothing there to fire. I have to call my shop tomorrow and make sure they troubleshooted the fuel line. I have to think that they would have thought of that though.

 

Something else to check is your valves. It can be extremely difficult, sometimes impossible,to start if your valves have closed off/out of spec. Having an electric start helps, but classic symptoms of closed off valves on the 300 non electric start bikes is difficult cold starting. Assuming everything else is in proper working order.

 

The last time I talked to the shop they mentioned that they would be adjusting the valves next, so it sounds like they might be on the right track there.

 

You should also get the shop to check all the grounding points on the bike.
My 2006 just decided one day not to start unless it was a cold engine.even then it was a bitch.
the shop changed out the stator.cdi unit,coil,spark plug and wire.with no luck. as they were trying to start the bikethey grabbed the main ground strap and it was hot.
the removed the strap and the bolts we ceroded as heck.they cleaned everything up and she now turns over faster now and starts easier than she ever has.

 

I worry that it is an electrical system problem. I will ask on Monday as well if they have checked the things you mentioned. Do you think I could have messed something up while wiring in those LED blinkers. I was doing some soldering and hooked in some diodes to get the lights to blink independently ( right or left ), and I noticed that the heat from the soldering would travel down the wires, so I am not sure if that heat caused a problem somewhere in the circuit. Do you think that iseven a possibilty.

 

unless you shorted something out.
I doubt you would have caused this problem you are having.

 

I doubt it is the valves if you had no other previous problems. Valves give you plenty of warning, your bike/atv will actually begin to run rough and eventually stall when it is hot (everything expands and gets tighter), not cold. Usually when riding hard and then coming to a stop. Often when it cools down it will restart and run for a while. I've seen these symptoms consistently so many times...though never to me cause I check them often on a new bike and once a new bike needs em done I adjust them to the loosest spec andrarely evertouch em again. I'm not saying it's impossible though, because a freind of mine with a VForce has his go to 0 after about 10 hours....obviously a screwup from the factory. Fortunately those where the old nut and screw types that you could adjust through the valve cover !

You might be better off bringing that bike home and following the feul/spark/air/compression advice. This is the time to learn. Checking for feul going into the carb is as easy as pulling off the line with the petcock open. Checking for spark is as easy as pulling the plug and if it looks good holding it next to the frame while cranking and looking for spark. Air you can hear while cranking if you pull the lid off. After that itgets harder, of course.

Are there any fuses? (I should know this)

 

I should know this also, but I don't. Sorry, I haven't a clue as far as fuses go.